Cruising the Briare Canal in France with European Waterways – Episode 1004

Hear about luxury barge cruising in France as Chris Christensen describes a week aboard the Renaissance, a European Waterways hotel barge traveling through Western Burgundy and the Upper Loire.

Chris and his wife previously cruised with European Waterways on the Canal du Midi. For this journey, they returned to France to explore the Briare Canal, one of the country’s oldest canals, aboard a vessel carrying just eight passengers and five crew members.

The result was an unusually intimate trip combining French cuisine, historic towns, private châteaux, Sancerre vineyards, canal locks, and long, leisurely afternoons on the water.

The Renaissance Hotel Barge

Instagram Tour of the Renaissance

The Renaissance began its life as a commercial barge before being converted into a luxury hotel barge in 1997. At 128 feet long and approximately 16.5 feet wide, it is nearly the maximum size that can fit through the locks of the Briare Canal.

The lower deck contains four spacious, air-conditioned cabins, each with an en suite bathroom. Cabins can be arranged with either a double bed or two single beds.

The main deck includes:

• A dining room
• A lounge area
• An outdoor dining area
• A hot tub
• A small library
• An open bar
• A galley operated by a French chef

The eight passengers were looked after by a crew of five: Captain and guide Craig, pilot Luke, chef Thomas, and hostesses Robin and Dani.

The small number of passengers and the high crew-to-guest ratio are central to the experience. Meals, excursions, cocktails, and daily activities are tailored to the group rather than organized for hundreds of passengers.

A Very Fast, Slow-Paced Trip

Although the journey lasts a week, the distance covered by the barge could be driven in less than an hour. Speed, however, is not the point.

The Renaissance moves slowly enough that passengers can leave the boat at one lock, walk or bicycle along the towpath, and meet it again farther down the canal. The old towpaths once used by animals pulling commercial barges are now walking and cycling trails.

Some guests spent the cruising time reading, journaling, walking, working, or simply watching avenues of plane trees and rural French scenery pass by.

Craig described the journey as a “really fast, slow-paced trip.” There is an excursion almost every day, but the overall rhythm remains relaxed.

The Briare Canal

Construction of the Briare Canal began in 1604 during the reign of King Henry IV. Between 6,000 and 12,000 laborers worked on the project, which took nearly 40 years to complete.

The canal connected the Loire River basin with waterways leading toward the Seine and Paris. It helped transport grain and other goods while reducing the risk of regional food shortages.

Because canals were still a relatively new idea in France, troops were reportedly needed to protect the workers from local landowners who opposed the seizure of land for construction.

Much of the canal was rebuilt and modernized during the 19th century. The locks used by the Renaissance largely date from that period, although remnants of the canal’s older engineering can still be seen.

Montargis: The Venice of the Gâtinais

The cruise began with a transfer from the Hotel Westminster in Paris to Montargis.

Montargis is known for its canals, bridges, half-timbered houses, and extensive floral displays. Sometimes called the “Venice of the Gâtinais,” the town has more than 100 bridges, including an iron pedestrian bridge associated with the Eiffel company.

Montargis has received the highest four-flower designation in France’s Villes et Villages Fleuris program, which recognizes communities for their gardens, landscaping, and public green spaces.

The barge attracted considerable attention as it passed through town. Because it nearly fills the locks from side to side and from bow to stern, watching it move through the canal became a local attraction.

Château de La Bussière

The first major excursion was to the privately owned Château de La Bussière, the Fishermen’s Castle.

The château is surrounded by water, creating beautiful reflections in the moat. Inside, its collections emphasize fishing, with historic rods, nets, equipment, and artwork displayed throughout the rooms.

The grounds include gardens and a large dovecote capable of holding approximately 1,000 birds. Historically, the size of a dovecote reflected the amount of land owned by the estate.

The château remains associated with the same family that owned it before the French Revolution, although portions of the property have been opened to visitors.

Fresh Bread and French Breakfasts

Each morning, Craig traveled to a local bakery to collect fresh baguettes and pastries for breakfast. Early risers could accompany him, providing an opportunity to see small villages and neighborhood bakeries that were not part of the formal itinerary.

Breakfast was followed by multi-course lunches and dinners prepared by Thomas, the barge’s French chef.

A typical dinner might include:

• Fresh cheese and zucchini cannoli with herbs and balsamic
• Duck breast with roasted potatoes, grilled turnips, and cherry jus
• A selection of three French cheeses
• Dessert
• White and red wines

Wine was served with lunch and dinner, and the bar operated throughout the day. Cocktails were frequently offered when guests returned from excursions.

Montargis

The group returned to Montargis to visit Maison Mazet, a historic confectioner known for pralines. Mazet traces its history to a recipe associated with the court of Louis XIII. Its classic pralines are almonds coated with caramelized sugar, although the company now produces numerous varieties incorporating chocolate, salt, rose, mint, hazelnuts, and other flavors. Guests participated in a pastry workshop and assembled a Paris-Brest pastry.

Montargis also has a church with detailed stained-glass windows. One unusual window depicts Saint Francis Xavier’s mission to Japan and includes the figure of a samurai. Craig also introduced the group to the “Green Man,” a decorative face surrounded by or sprouting foliage. Green Man carvings appear in medieval churches throughout France and England.

Rogny-les-Sept-Écluses

The barge continued toward Rogny-les-Sept-Écluses, the village of the seven locks. The original staircase of seven locks was constructed as part of the early canal system. Although the locks are no longer filled with water or used by boats, the stone structures have been preserved as a historic monument. The locks are illuminated after dark, allowing visitors to walk beside one of the most impressive remnants of the canal’s original 17th-century engineering.

As the Renaissance approached, Rogny, a jazz trio boarded the barge and performed while the passengers cruised through the countryside.

Moret-sur-Loing

Another excursion visited Moret-sur-Loing, a picturesque fortified town associated with the Impressionist painter Alfred Sisley. The town retains medieval gateways, old stone walls, two gates, and a historic mill.

The church contains another Green Man carving, as well as a diagram showing how different sections of the building were constructed over several centuries.

Moret-sur-Loing is also associated with sucre d’orge, or barley sugar. Benedictine nuns began producing the confection in the 17th century. Despite its name, the hard candy is pleasantly sweet and remains a local specialty.

Château de Rosa Bonheur

One of Chris’s unexpected highlights was the Château de Rosa Bonheur. Rosa Bonheur was one of the most successful animal painters of the 19th century. Her best-known work, The Horse Fair, is a monumental painting of horses and riders now displayed at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. The success of that painting helped Bonheur purchase the château where she lived and worked.

Her studio has been preserved with paintings, sketches, animal studies, personal objects, and an unfinished canvas. Bonheur kept numerous animals on the property, including deer and a lion, allowing her to study their anatomy and movement closely.

The château is now being restored and interpreted by a family of women dedicated to preserving Bonheur’s work and legacy. The group had lunch at the château with one of the women involved in the restoration.

Reaching the Summit of the Canal

During the first half of the week, the Renaissance climbed gradually through a series of locks. Near the midpoint of the journey, it reached the canal’s highest elevation.

Reservoirs in this area provide water for the canal. After reaching the summit, the barge began descending toward the Loire.

This stretch was particularly suited to walking. Passengers could follow the towpath between locks while the boat continued slowly through the countryside.

Briare and the Canal Bridge

Briare is best known for the Pont-Canal de Briare, an aqueduct that carries the canal over the Loire River. The bridge is frequently associated with Gustave Eiffel, although Eiffel himself did not design it. His company contributed to portions of its construction.

The bridge is illuminated at night, and the group walked across it after dinner. The following morning, the Renaissance crossed the Loire on the canal bridge.

To celebrate the crossing, Craig opened champagne with a saber and demonstrated the art of sabrage to one of the passengers.

The Wines of Sancerre

Sancerre is best known for crisp white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc. The hilltop town overlooks vineyards planted across dramatically different types of soil.

The journey included an excursion to the Sancerre wine region and a visit to the Hubert Brochard winery. The group toured the production facilities and learned how winemakers choose between stainless steel tanks, oak barrels, and concrete vessels. The visit illustrated how weather, soil, oxygen exposure, and winemaking vessels can all influence the final wine.

After the tasting, the group had time to explore the compact hilltop town of Sancerre.

Cooking Aboard the Renaissance

Back aboard the barge, Thomas gave a cooking demonstration.

Guests helped prepare lobster ravioli and watched him construct chocolate spheres that would later be filled with ice cream for dessert.

Food is one of the defining elements of a European Waterways cruise. Meals are not simply fuel between excursions but a central part of the experience, accompanied by regional wines and a daily selection of French cheeses.

Château de Ratilly

The final major excursion was to Château de Ratilly, a fortified château whose construction began in the 13th century. Today, the château operates as an arts center hosting exhibitions, workshops, performances, and creative retreats.

The group watched a pottery demonstration and learned about Ratilly’s traditional wood-fired kiln.

The property also contains another historic dovecote, complete with a rotating ladder used to reach nesting spaces built into the walls.

Life Aboard the Barge

Daily schedules and menus were posted on chalkboards in the lounge.

Passengers could spend their free time walking, cycling, reading, working, using the hot tub, or talking with the crew. Starlink internet provided reliable connectivity for most of the journey, although trees along the canal can occasionally interrupt the signal, especially when heading from south to north.

The cabins include heated towel racks, which are useful for drying hand-washed clothing. Guests also receive a reusable water bottle, hat, and European Waterways bag.

The trip requires some mobility. Passengers need to navigate stairs between decks and walk across uneven surfaces during certain excursions. The excursions are not especially strenuous, but the cruise would be difficult for someone unable to manage stairs or short walking tours.

Who Is This Trip For?

This cruise is best suited to travelers who:

• Appreciate excellent food and wine
• Enjoy history, art, castles, and small towns
• Prefer intimate experiences to large-group tours
• Want a balance between sightseeing and relaxation

European Waterways hosted Chris and his wife aboard the Renaissance. Chris and his wife paid for their transportation to France, accommodations before and after the cruise, and the crew gratuity.

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Show Notes

Cruising on the Canal du Midi – A Luxury Barge Cruise in Southern France including Carcassonne
Briare Canal
Luxury Hotel Barge Cruises in Europe | European Waterways
Luxury Hotel Barge Renaissance
Classic Cruise in the Upper Loire & Western Burgundy – Renaissance
Hotel Westminster Paris
Montargis
Cruising the Canal de Briare and the Loire Valley of France – Amateur Traveler Episode 840
Henry IV of France
Château de La Bussière
Mazet Confiseur
Paris–Brest
Green Man
Rogny-les-Sept-Écluses
The Seven Locks of Rogny-les-Sept-Écluses
Moret-sur-Loing
Sucre d’Orge des Religieuses de Moret
Rosa Bonheur
Rosa Bonheur Museum
Château de Rosa Bonheur
Rosa Bonheur – The Horse Fair – The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Sancerre
Sancerre Wine
Domaine Hubert Brochard
Briare
Pont-Canal de Briare
Château de Ratilly
Châtillon-sur-Loire

Community

on Travel to Delaware – Episode 998:

Hi Chris –

I’ve been listening to your podcast for many years now – I LOVE it!

Wanted to respond to your excellent Delaware episode – I did something unique in Wilmington last year.

There is a wooden “Tall Ship” called the Kalmar Nyckel.

When she is homeported in Wilmington, for about $50.00, you get access to the grounds where she is docked, the Maritime Museum there, and then a ride on the actual ship, including opportunities to pull on the ropes to raise and lower
sails.

Thought I’d let you and your listeners know…

Sincerely,

Aaron 

Give me your feedback on the show at AmateurTraveler.com/1000
Amateur Traveler Trips