The question travel bloggers hate is “what is your favorite country?” When pressed, the country I am most likely to name is Egypt. The first Amateur Traveler tour was a photo tour of Egypt. Egypt is a complex, chaotic, colorful, And culturally rich country.
Is Egypt Safe?
Before I talk about places to visit in Egypt let’s address the elephant in the room. Is Egypt safe? That can change with the political situation so consult the U.S. State Department website, but in general, there is a lot of effort that goes into trying to make the tourist experience safe. It is a key part of the Egyptian economy and when trouble does happen the tourism to Egypt drops off a cliff. That being said, when we landed in Cairo we knew we were someplace different.
Chaos
There were definitely moments that Egypt took us out of our comfort zone. My wife and I arrived alone at the Cairo airport at nearly midnight. The process of getting our entry visas was not straightforward. As we walked into the night a jovial stranger greeted us and offered to procure a cab for us. We soon found ourselves heading into the darkness following a man we didn’t know who was carrying both our suitcases. My wife asked me if I thought this was a particularly good idea but my gut said it was OK. True to his word he led us to a cab driver and after a brief conversation that we didn’t understand we were launched into Cairo traffic.
Our cab driver darted and weaved past other cars, past foolhardy pedestrians and slow-moving donkey carts. I closed my eyes more than once. Even at nearly 1 AM the city was very much alive. It only took stopping twice to ask another stranger for directions before our cab driver crossed the busy city and delivered us to our hotel.
The Great Pyramid
As a lover of history, trying to understand how old the Great Pyramid challenges me. Our guide, an egyptologist, told us the pyramid was built during the Old Kingdom. It was built so long ago that the name of the invaders who toppled the old Kingdom have been lost to the mists of time. The invaders had a technological edge over the Egyptians of that time. They had the wheel and chariots.
Standing at the only remain remaining wonder of the seven wonders of the ancient world took my breath away. The Great Pyramid was already over 2000 years old when that list was created in the 1st century.
Upper Egypt
We took an early morning (middle of the night really) flight south to Upper Egypt. We arrived just as the sun was coming up. We took a boat out to the temple to Isis and Philae. I had to wonder if the designers of the Disneyland jungle cruise ride had seen these boats as they looked eerily familiar. As we got off the bus to get on the boats a crowd of vendors descended on our guide who had the omnipotent power to choose a few of them to accompany us on the boat ride and have exclusive access to our attention.
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Hieroglyphics
Our guide deciphered the hieroglyphics on the temple for us. But the hieroglyphics don’t change that much from one temple to another. Here is our good pharaoh (fill in the blank with Pharaoh’s name). See how the gods smile on him. See how they gave him life. You should listen to this guy. The pharaoh might be one of the 11 named Rameses from the New Kingdom or one of 14 named Ptolemy but the message was basically the same. I got to the point where I could pick out the cartouche for Ramesses or Ptolemy on the temples from sheer repetition.
A cartouche is a proper name in hieroglyphics and it is surrounded by an oval as in the above photo. Ramesses starts with ‘Ra’ or sun so the cartouche on the left that has a sun at the top is his.
Nubian Village
Again in the early light of dawn, we boarded a boat and sailed up the Nile to where boys and men on camels greeted us at the beach. Now I know a camel ride sounds like the ultimate tourist service thing to do, but I swear to you my wife will still get giddy if you mention her camel from Egypt. Each of the camels seemed to have their own personality as Joan’s camel nuzzled with the person in front of her in our caravan. I swear my camel smiled and mugged for the camera when I went to take his picture.
This the fine sand along the shores of the Nile made advantage of a camel ride obvious even for a quarter of a mile. Walking up the hill of sand was a chore for us but our faithful ships of the desert handled the task with ease.
The Nubian people are a beautiful people and with their dark skin, I was reminded of my trip to sub-Saharan Africa. Spices and dyes added to the color palette of the scene.
Memphis
With as much history to see in Egypt, it is amazing to think about how much history has been lost. You cannot visit Memphis which was the capital of the Old Kingdom in Egypt.
One of the artifacts that you can see from Memphis is the Colossus of Memphis which is a statue of Rameses II lying down inside a museum built for it in Cairo. The colossus is about 36 feet long (without its feet) β it is so large that you can only get a good shot from the balcony above.
Valley of the Kings
Most of the tombs of the pharaohs from the New Kingdom were hidden in the Valley of the Kings. Most were discovered and looted centuries ago.
Tutankhamun’s tomb
Tutankhamun’s tomb is notable not for size, its grandeur, or the uniqueness of its treasure but for being undiscovered for so long and therefore intact when discovered in the 1800s. The tomb itself was claustrophobic. It is surprisingly small in size when you consider how many of the riches in the Cairo Museum came from this one tomb. Photographs from the opening of the tomb show a ramshackle pile of treasure that would rival the worst garage of your pack-rat neighbor.
With amazing timing, we just happened to be in the tomb of Tutankhamun when egyptologists opened the outer sarcophagus to check on its contents. You could come back for decades and not have so rare an encounter with history. Some of the other tombs for the more major pharaohs were stunning. The art on the walls was still colorful millennia after the tomb was built. Arrive as early in the day as you can to avoid the crowds.
These are just some of the highlights of our trip. Our pictures only capture part of the trip. World War II battlefields, quiet beaches, noisy marketplaces, horse-drawn carriage rides, temples, churches, mosques, monasteries, desert landscapes, and the life-giving Nile all await you in this amazing land.
Podcast
Listen to more about our Egypt trip at Photo Tour of Egypt – Amateur Traveler Episode 255.
For tours to Egypt check out our sponsor Monarch budget holidays.
+Chris Christensen | @chris2x | facebook
Wes Yuckin
Says:February 21st, 2014 at 10:05 am
Hi Chris, I enjoy reading your articles and listening to your program. I have been to Egypt twice. One of my favorite places to go. My wife and I last went in 2011 and spent 9 weeks there. It was a trip of a life time.
Reading your article I noticed several mistakes with the history. The Ramsesses lived during the New Kingdom not the Middle Kingdom. The Ptolemys lived during the Ptolemy period. Also the pharaohs burried in the Valley of the Kings lived during the New Kingdom.
It is easy to get time periods mixed up with Egyptian history due to the approx 3,000 years of it.
Keep up the good work! I enjoy your program.
chris2x
Says:February 21st, 2014 at 10:17 am
Wes, thanks for the correction. I sometimes have problems with Egyptian History because the New Kingdom was so darn long ago. π
Doris Denton
Says:October 27th, 2014 at 4:12 am
My sister and I are considering Egypt as my ultimate bucket list bday trip for sometime next yr. Do you still consider it safe? Are the pyramids in the region that now requires isolation upon return?
chris2x
Says:October 27th, 2014 at 10:15 am
I am not sure what the situation on the ground is right now. I have not heard negative news in a bit. Cairo is thousands of miles from where the Ebola outbreak is.
Jeff Perkins
Says:October 27th, 2014 at 11:06 am
Ebola wouldn’t be a reason for avoiding Egypt out the moment – internal issues are what need to be taken into account.
I would consider the Sinai peninsula to be a no-go area at the moment. 30 Egyptian troops were killed there in an incident last week.
The Giza pyramids are in outer Cairo, well away from the Sinai as are the other prominent sites around Luxor/Aswan.
The current Egyptian government has been very heavy handed in dealing with protestors, opposition and journalists and does not seem reluctant to employ deadly force- this means there will always be the possibility of internal politics creating danger, especially in central Cairo. You will need to use your own judgement in this matter. The danger would seem to be low for the Nile and Cairo at the moment – but it might not take much to change this and your personal levels of risk-averseness need to be applied.
We were planning on Egypt late last year when things looked more risky and ended up in Spain instead. Keeping an eye on the situation with a view now of hopefully in 2016, possibly in 2015 if things look particularly stable (have to head back home to Australia this year as it has been a while.)
I would recommend holding off on committing to travel to Egypt as long as possible and only booking at the last possible minute even if this means paying a little more, having a back-up destination in mind that you can change to at the last minute (easy to get bookings for, not needing visas well in advance) and keeping an eye on the news coming out of there.
Cindy
Says:December 12th, 2019 at 9:30 pm
Hi, Chris. Just listened to your show on St Lucia and loved all the wonderful memories it brought back from my wedding trip Barefoot cruise there oh so many years ago. Such a lovely place. Can’t believe I haven’t been back. But then, for whatever reason, I got to wondering when you last covered Egypt and what you had to say about it because I LOVE Egypt. I laughed to see that, when you got the dreaded “what’s your favorite country” question that, at least at one time Egypt was your answer too! I finally got back again for a couple of weeks last winter and can say that it is still my favorite place – or at least one of my very favorite places. Planning to make trip number 3 after the new Egyptian Museum opens! Anyway, thanks for more great episodes. Keep them coming!
Chris Christensen
Says:December 13th, 2019 at 9:13 am
Yes, Egypt in on my shortlist of most memorable trips. π
Kahire Gezilecek Yerler
Says:December 11th, 2020 at 12:41 pm
Great post about a great country. However, Cairo municipality should control the so-called guides at the Giza Complex.
eypt
Says:October 11th, 2023 at 12:19 am
Thank you for your insights on increasing tourism in Egypt. I wholeheartedly agree with the suggested strategies and appreciate the comprehensive approach.
Investing in infrastructure and ensuring the safety of travelers are foundational steps that can significantly improve the visitor experience. Preserving Egypt’s rich cultural heritage and implementing sustainable practices will not only attract more tourists but also protect the country’s assets for future generations.