A Weekend in San Antonio: Returning to the River Walk

San Antonio River Walk

It is common for travelers of my age to discuss destinations on their “bucket list.” I find this term somewhat problematic and refrain from using it when referring to travel. Each time I explore a new place, I genuinely believe that certain circumstances may allow me to revisit it. I prefer to consider travel in terms of opportunities. I have been known to pass on various attractions, assuming I will experience them on my next visit, despite the likelihood that my next visit may be quite slim. Therefore, when I have the chance to return to a destination for a second time, I look forward to it with the same excitement as my first visit.

I initially traveled to San Antonio, Texas, in the early 1980s while attending a friend’s wedding in Austin. During my stay, I had some leisure days, so I rented a car and journeyed to New Braunfels to visit the new water park and San Antonio to enjoy the River Walk. Both destinations made a lasting impression on me. This year, I had the opportunity to accompany my wife to a conference in Austin, so I proposed that we spend the weekend before the conference in San Antonio.

I was confident that she would truly appreciate the city, and I was eager to find out if much had changed. There is always a certain risk involved in this; frequently, the recollection of your vacation does not quite match the reality of the experience. However, in this instance, San Antonio exceeded my memories of it. Naturally, it was exceptionally fulfilling to revisit San Antonio alongside my wife. We only had Friday evening, all of Saturday, and Sunday morning. That is not an extensive amount of time to explore San Antonio, but we were determined to make the most of it. There is a great deal to see there, and we enjoyed two delightful days that left us wanting to return for more.

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San Antonio Hyatt

Memories of My First Visit to San Antonio

What stands out most vividly from my initial trip to San Antonio is the experience of strolling along the pathways along loop of the River Walk, enjoying a barge ride on the San Antonio River, browsing the market stalls at the Plaza del Mercado, ascending the elevator to the summit of the Tower of the Americas, visiting the recently opened Hyatt Regency, and listening to live music at a venue close to the River Walk.

I distinctly recall my stay at the historic Menger Hotel, conveniently located directly across the street from the Alamo, and recommended by the AAA Motor Guide as an excellent accommodation choice. Regrettably, I cannot recall where I dined or any details about the food scene.

San Antonio Hyatt Regency

Getting to San Antonio from Austin

Our journey to San Antonio resembled my initial visit. We took a flight to Austin and rented a car to travel to San Antonio. I recalled that the roads were bumpy during my previous trip and that there was considerable traffic. Those two conditions were still true this time. On my last visit, I relied on a map. However, this time I used a GPS app for navigation. As a water park no longer holds the same allure it did in my twenties, we opted to bypass it and proceeded directly to our accommodation, the Hyatt Regency.

San Antonio has experienced significant growth since my initial visit, yet the downtown area felt recognizable. A pedestrian plaza now exists in front of the Alamo, but numerous historic buildings remain intact, and the River Walk appeared much as I recalled it over 40 years ago. The aesthetic charm and the feeling of walking into an urban oasis were still there.

San Antonio River Walk

A Brief History of the San Antonio River Walk

The San Antonio River Walk has its roots in the devastating 1921 flood, which claimed more than 50 lives. In the aftermath, city officials considered covering the river to construct a storm sewer; however, the San Antonio Conservation Society, along with local residents, campaigned to protect the waterway. Their efforts led to architect Robert H. H. Hugman’s 1929 design, which aimed to realize his dream of a “Venice of Texas,” a charming pedestrian promenade.

San Antonio Bridges

Construction began in 1939 with $750,000 in Works Progress Administration (WPA) funding. Hugman crafted meandering stone pathways, arched bridges, and lush landscaping to establish the look of an urban oasis. Regrettably, the River Walk experienced periods of neglect in the mid-20th century. Fortunately, the 1968 HemisFair world’s fair ignited a commercial revival, converting the river into a top destination for hotels, outdoor dining, and the city’s renowned tourist barges.

Today, the River Walk has expanded from its initial 2.5-mile loop to a 15-mile cultural corridor. Recent developments, such as the Museum Reach and the Mission Reach, have connected the downtown area to the historic Pearl District and the UNESCO-designated Spanish missions. At present, San Antonio’s River Walk serves as an international benchmark for urban design, effectively integrating essential flood management with an exceptional tourism and recreational experience.

La Rosa – San Antonio

First Night: Tex-Mex on the River Walk

Our initial day of travel began early in Florida. By the time we reached Austin, Texas, collected our rental vehicle, had lunch, drove to San Antonio, checked into our hotel, parked, and settled into our room, we were prepared for dinner. Before our journey, we researched dining options in San Antonio and concluded that, given we had two nights, we would look for establishments that served Texas-style cuisine. In particular, we sought a well-reviewed Tex-Mex restaurant and a Texas barbecue establishment.

Acenar – San Antonio

For our first evening, we opted for Tex-Mex cuisine. We discovered a restaurant named Ácenar Mexican Restaurant, which translates to dinner in Spanish, situated along the River Walk, just outside the loop area. We arrived at approximately 5 pm, when the sun was still shining brightly, and the temperature remained warm. Upon our arrival, we noticed the restaurant featured an inviting outdoor patio with shaded sections offering a view of the River Walk. Despite the restaurant being quite busy, we were promptly seated outside.

San Antonio Acenar

Ácenar proved to be an excellent choice for our first dining experience in San Antonio. Both of us savored some fire-roasted salsa and chips, and we selected various tacos from the Chef’s Favorites menu. We particularly appreciated the addition of a flavorful cabbage lime slaw that accompanied the tacos. Having felt adequately satisfied after our dinner entrees, we decided to postpone dessert until later.

San Antonio Dinner Barge

Taking a GO RIO River Walk Boat Tour

We had a wonderful time enjoying the scenery along the River Walk and observing the people as the sun began to set. We saw numerous river barges pass by, which helped to convince us to take one for a ride around the River Walk area. Prior to 2017, several companies offered tours of the River Walk, resulting in variations in the quality of tours, boats, and the narratives provided by guides, depending on the company you chose. Many of the river barges were deemed old, with reports indicating that they were worn out, noisy, and in need of replacement.

In 2017, the City Council granted an exclusive, 10-year contract to GO RIO San Antonio for the management of the entire fleet. This initiative was intended to enhance the experience with a vibrant fleet of electric, eco-friendly river barges. The decision created a cohesive appearance for the river fleet and streamlined the operation. No specific times are designated, allowing passengers to begin their journey from multiple locations throughout the River Walk area.

The relaxing narrated excursion lasts about 35 minutes, and traverses approximately 1.5 miles of the downtown River Walk. The tour employs quiet, environmentally friendly electric barges featuring open-air seating, ensuring accessibility for everyone.

San Antonio Selina Bridge

Our knowledgeable guide, a seasoned professional with 25 years of experience, offered detailed insights into the local history, culture, and architecture, highlighting notable filming locations, including the bridge where a scene from the film Selena was shot. As we listened to other tours passing by, we realized that while the tours themselves may not differ significantly from one vessel to another, the guides’ unique presentations showcase their individual personalities and enthusiasm for the journey.

The River Walk boat tour is an essential experience for any first-time visitor, yet it can also be enjoyed over and over again. It offers a wonderful opportunity to observe people and gain insights into various areas of the city. The experience becomes particularly enchanting as the sun sets, illuminating the city and the River Walk with its lights. However, the boat tour is often quite crowded during this time.

San Antonio River Walk

There are several access points for the boat, and tickets can be purchased either online or at three ticket booths located at Rivercenter, Historia, or Aztec. The boat will return to the spot where you initially boarded. I wish I could say we engaged in more activities on our first night, but after a long day of travel, we only had the energy to enjoy some music near our hotel before retiring for the night, well before midnight.

Breakfast Plans and a Change of Course

The following morning, we devised a plan. We conducted online research to find a distinctive breakfast spot near our hotel and discovered that La Panaderia Downtown on East Houston Street had excellent reviews. We intended to arrive early since we had read that it becomes quite busy during brunch hours. I was particularly attracted to a Cinnamon Raisin Pecan Roll, a churro croissant, featured on their menu. When we finally arrived, shortly before 10 AM, the queue had already grown to a 75-minute wait for seating. This was more than our appetites could bear, so we returned to our hotel as a commendable alternative.

San Antonio Market Square

Historic Market Square

Our destination for the late morning and early afternoon was the Historic Market Square, which is located approximately a 25-30 minute walk from our hotel. Since the 1890s, Historic Market Square has been situated in the heart of San Antonio and is recognized as one of the largest Mexican markets in the nation. Over the years, generations of vendors have continued various businesses.

San Antonio Market Square

I recalled that during my visit 40 years ago, a significant portion of the market was dedicated to selling food items such as fruits, vegetables, and meats. The food market played a crucial role in the overall experience, providing both meal-preparation ingredients and ready-to-eat foods to enjoy near the stalls. Presently, the market primarily features retail stalls alongside a diverse selection of prepared food, a restaurant, and a bakery.

Currently, Market Square is characterized as a three-block outdoor plaza featuring a variety of shops and restaurants. The El Mercado area, initially constructed as a Works Progress Administration project between 1938 and 1939, includes 32 specialty shops, while the Farmer’s Market Plaza section boasts 80. Major dining establishments include Mi Tierra Cafe Y Panaderia and La Margarita Mexican Restaurant & Oyster Bar, although other shops also offer snacks and specialty foods.

San Antonio Market Square Shop

We enjoyed browsing the shops, and my wife purchased some jewelry.

San Antonio Market Square Churros

Given that we had just finished breakfast, we were not excessively hungry; however, we could not resist indulging in some freshly prepared churros. We noticed a vintage churro machine where the dough was stored in a metal container positioned above the oil. The cook released the dough and intermittently cut it to form churros that dropped into the oil. Paired with a rich dark chocolate dipping sauce, they were among the most memorable churros we have ever savored. The plaza and eateries were bustling, and the ambiance was lively. We spent nearly two hours strolling around and exploring the various shops.

The Alamo – San Antonio

Visiting the Alamo

During our return walk, we took a detour through various streets in the city, ultimately deciding to head back to the Alamo. Given that my wife was raised and educated in China, she was unfamiliar with the history surrounding Texas’s most renowned historic site. I attempted to convey its importance to her, but she found the buildings rather small to warrant such fame. At present, considerable construction is underway in the plaza in front of the old mission church; however, it remains accessible to tourists.

The Alamo – San Antonio

I had previously taken the tour inside the church, so this time we opted to explore the inner courtyard, gift shop, outer exhibits, and fort recreations. We spent over an hour enjoying the area around the plaza. The vicinity boasts numerous shops, historic hotels, an indoor mall, and a Louis Tussaud’s Waxworks, named after the great-grandson of Marie Tussaud and operated by the neighboring Ripley’s Believe It or Not.

Pinkertons – San Antonio

Dinner at Pinkerton’s Barbecue

Our objective for dinner was to find authentic Texas barbecue in the downtown River Walk area. Nearly every review directed us to one establishment, Pinkerton’s Barbecue on West Houston Street. As a brisket enthusiast and my wife being a rib aficionado, we concluded that this was the ideal choice. Aware that the venue attracted both tourists and locals, we thought it wise to start our dinner early. It was approximately a 15-minute stroll from our hotel, so we planned to arrive before 5 pm. Similar to our experience at La Panaderia, we reached our destination only to encounter a line of patrons waiting to enter that stretched for 75 minutes.

Pinkertons – San Antonio

Both of us anticipated a wait, but not to this extent. Nevertheless, we remained patient. In fact, the delay provided a valuable opportunity to connect with others nearby. Even the door attendant was pleasant to converse with. We gained insights about Texas and its residents.

Upon entering, we discovered that the service was cafeteria-style. We queued to select our cold and hot sides, followed by our meat choices. As it was our first visit, we ended up ordering more food than we could consume. One of the meat carvers even jokingly suggested that they could help us carry our heavy tray to the table.

The delay allowed for comfortable spacing between diners, providing ample seating in the eating area. Additionally, there were dining options on a porch and outdoors. Staff members in the dining room were available to assist with various needs, and a bar was situated within the same space. The overall experience was seamless and relaxed, enabling us to enjoy our meal at a leisurely pace.

Pinkertons – San Antonio

The taste of the food justified the wait, and the brisket truly lived up to its esteemed reputation. Pinkerton’s proved to be a superb selection.

Alamo at night

San Antonio After Dark

As twilight drew near, we decided to take a stroll to admire the night lights. While San Antonio is picturesque during the day, the illumination at night brings an entirely different aspect to the experience.

The downtown area is bustling, with music emanating from various venues on nearly every street, and people are reveling in the atmosphere. After experiencing the Alamo at night and revisiting the River Walk, we gradually returned to the vicinity of our hotel to savor some music and beverages. It was an ideal, relaxing evening.

San Antonio at night

The following morning, we were scheduled to leave, yet we made one last effort to enjoy breakfast at La Panaderia, only to discover the line was even longer than the previous day. It goes without saying that we opted to postpone this experience for our next trip to San Antonio.

San Antonio Hyatt Regency Bar

What We Missed and Would Do Next Time

Reflecting on our all-too-short visit to San Antonio, we concluded that it is such an exceptional destination that it deserves a spot on our “Visit Often” list. There was much more we wanted to do, but we did not have enough time. I really wanted to experience the nighttime Ghost Tour of San Antonio; however, I found myself lacking the energy each evening. Additionally, there were attractions near the River Walk that we overlooked, including the Tower of the Americas, the Briscoe Western Art Museum, and the Saga at San Fernando Cathedral, a 24-minute light show projected onto the cathedral that depicts the city’s history.

Other attractions we would consider are the Witte Museum and the San Antonio Zoo, both located in Brackenridge Park, which are renowned for their history, nature, dinosaur displays, and wildlife variety. Additionally, there is the Japanese Tea Garden, a free-to-visit garden that showcases koi ponds, waterfalls, and vibrant landscaping. Naturally, since we have already visited the Alamo, we must allocate a day to explore the four remaining Spanish colonial missions, Concepción, San José, San Juan, and Espada, within the San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Carriage Ride – San Antonio

San Antonio Events Worth Planning Around

In the future, we will also take into account various festivals and events that occur along the River Walk throughout the year. The Fiesta San Antonio, held in April, showcases the Texas Cavaliers River Parade, a customary spectacle featuring beautifully decorated floats on the river. Additionally, Fiesta Floating Performances, including mariachi and folklorico dance, are held directly on the water. During the St. Patrick’s Day Celebration, the river is dyed a vibrant emerald green to commemorate the holiday, with Irish dancers and bagpipers performing along the banks.

The Day of the Dead River Parade, held in late October, showcases floats designed by Mexican artisans depicting various figures, narratives, and customs associated with the Day of the Dead. Additionally, there is a Holiday River Parade in late November, followed by a December Holiday Lights celebration during which the River Walk is adorned with thousands of lights. Artisan exhibitions are held from January through the summer months, and River Walk Live! is a monthly concert series hosted at the historic Arneson River Theatre, featuring live music beneath the stars.

Author at the River Walk

Final Thoughts on a San Antonio Weekend

We had a memorable journey to San Antonio. This remarkable destination certainly lives up to its hype. During our two days in the city, the River Walk reminded us that sometimes a great trip is not defined by how many things you check off your bucket list, but by the enjoyment you share of being in a place that feels unique and fulfilling. San Antonio taught us the importance of taking the time to appreciate a place’s beauty and energy. We are committed to ensuring that it does not take us another 40 years to return. We will return, and fortunately, we left a few attractions to see for next time.