For decades, Mallorca has had a reputation in Europe as a budget-friendly getaway. Mallorca was called Putzfraueninsel in Germany or “Cleaning Lady Island” due to its association with package tourism in the late 20th century. It was where you went to get a cheap flight, a cheap hotel, and a beach chair.
Mallorca still offers budget vacations and beautiful beaches; however, the island is transforming, emerging as a destination known for luxury, cultural depth, and outdoor adventure. Visitors today experience a sophisticated blend of old-world charm, natural beauty, and upscale indulgence.
But what exactly makes Mallorca worth visiting?
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Mallorca
I visited Mallorca recently for my second trip to the island. I was a guest of the Mallorcan Tourism Board and the Spanish Tourism Board.
The island of Mallorca measures 62 miles from north to south and 43 miles from east to west. It covers around 1400 sq miles, making it almost exactly the same area as Long Island in the United States. The terrain is very mountainous, with its highest mountain around 4700 ft high.
It is fairly dry, getting about 17 inches of rain a year, with summer being the driest and hottest season. There are no permanent rivers on the island, but there are seasonal rivers or streams called torrents. The island is mostly limestone, with some caves that tourists can visit. With almost a million residents, plus the many tourists, the island provides a significant portion of its drinking water through desalinization.
Palma
Begin your journey in Palma, Mallorca’s bustling capital. Palma still has the beaches it is known for, like Playa de Palma (a narrow beach over three miles long) and Cala Major, a smaller, busy beach. But I encourage you to explore the history and culture of this city, which was founded by the Romans in 123 BC.
Palma Cathedral
The Palma Cathedral, also known as La Seu, is one of the most iconic landmarks in Mallorca, standing proudly along the city’s waterfront. Construction began in 1229 after King James I of Aragon’s Christian conquest of the island, and it took centuries to complete, with the final touches added in 1601. This stunning Gothic cathedral is renowned for its vast interior space, stained glass windows, and the largest Gothic rose window in the world.
The cathedral was literally built around the old mosque so that the worshippers had a roof over their heads while their cathedral took shape over centuries. If you visit with a guide, they can point out one remaining wall from the original structure, which is askew from the current cathedral, as the mosque was built to face Mecca.
Antoni Gaudí, the famous Catalan architect, made significant contributions to its interior in the early 20th century, modernizing the space with electric lights.
In 2007, the artist Barceló completed a large-scale ceramic mural in the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament (also known as the Chapel of Sant Pere). The ceramic mural is a highly abstract and expressive interpretation, featuring marine life, bread, and fish as recurring motifs, which are important elements of Mallorca’s identity. It also includes a human impression, which is that of the artist himself. However, that impression was “censored” from the artist’s original conception. Personally, it was not my favorite part of the cathedral.
Visitors to La Seu can also take advantage of a unique opportunity to climb to the roof. The ascent involves climbing a narrow spiral staircase, leading to a vantage point that offers a closer look at the cathedral’s flying buttresses and rose window. In the cathedral, you can sometimes see the shadows of people walking by the large rose window.
You can also get panoramic views of the city, the harbor crowded with sailboats and superyachts, and the hilltop Castell de Bellver, built in the early 1500s for James II of Spain.
Old Town
S’Hort del Rei
Next to the Cathedral is the Royal Palace of La Almudaina. It is a historic royal residence that blends Moorish and Gothic architecture. Originally built as an Arab fortress in the 10th century, Christian kings transformed it after Mallorca’s conquest in the 13th century. It has a small public garden next to it in the Moorish style S’Hort del Rei.
Baluard de Sant Pere
Two of the original bulwarks that formed the corner of the old city wall still stand along the waterfront. The Baluard des Príncep (the Prince’s Bastion) is east of the Cathedral, and the Baluard de Sant Pere (housing the Modern Art Museum) is to the west.
Plaza Sa Drassana
Walk through the narrow streets and alleys of the old town. You will come across small historic squares like Plaza Sa Drassana. Note that the center of the square is still surrounded by bollards where you can tie up your boat. This hints at the square’s origin as a shipyard.
Be sure to visit Fornet de la Soca, a beloved local bakery that preserves the tradition of Mallorcan pastries and baked goods. It is famous for using locally sourced ingredients and centuries-old recipes celebrating the island’s culinary heritage. The bakery specializes in artisan breads, pastries, and sweets, including classic Mallorcan treats like ensaimadas (a spiral-shaped pastry). The bakery is housed in a historic theatre building in what was the theatre’s ticket office.
In the evening, savor Mediterranean flavors at fine restaurants like La Lonja by the marina. This is Spain, so plan on eating late and eating well.
On my recent trip, we based our exploration of Palma and its surroundings with a stay at the sleek and modern Hotel HM Palma Blanc. Read my review of Hotel HM Palma Blanc.
Mallorcan Cooking Classes at MOLTAK
On all my travels, I don’t recall ever taking a cooking class, and after an experience at MOLTAK Kitchen Life in Palma, I have come to regret that choice. Under the tutelage of chef and owner Luis Matas Van Bockel, my group of travelers was guided through the creation of a meal that included:
- Cream Catalonia
- Spanish tortilla (potato omelet)
- Soquet Sobrassada (sausage dip)
- Pa Amb Oli (bread with tomato and oil)
- Paella
It might just have been the free-flowing wine, but based on the laughter coming from the kitchen next door, it was not just our group having a great time. To make it extra special, the class is held in a historic windmill.
To learn more about the cooking classes, check out Make and Taste the Local Cuisine in Mallorca, Spain, by Courtney of Real Food Traveler.
Son Vida Golf Course
A Golf Destination
While I am not a golfer, Mallorca has emerged as a top-tier destination for golf enthusiasts. With its dry climate and lack of rivers and lakes, Mallorca may not seem ideal for golf courses, but courses like Arabella are watered through grey water from Palma. What they do have is wonderful weather for golfing year-round.
The Castillo Hotel Son Vida was originally a 13th-century castle built by the Vida family, one of Mallorca’s noble families, during the medieval period. The castle’s strategic hilltop location offered sweeping views of Palma and the surrounding area, making it an ideal defensive structure. The castle was restored and transformed into a luxury hotel. It officially opened its doors as the Castillo Hotel Son Vida in 1961, spearheaded by Stephen Albert Plughoff, an American entrepreneur who recognized its potential as a high-end destination instead of just a destination for package tourism.
The island’s first golf course, Son Vida, opened in 1964, marking the beginning of Mallorca’s development as a premier golf destination. Son Vida was designed by the renowned golf architect F.W. Hawtree. Son Vida is near the Castillo Hotel Son Vida, which played a significant role in attracting international visitors to the island for golf.
An earlier effort to open a golf course in the 1930s failed due to the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War.
The Arabella Golf Mallorca complex now features three renowned courses: Son Vida, Son Muntaner, and Son Quint. The island now has 24 golf courses. Son Vida is the most prestigious golf course on the island, having hosted several European Tour events.
Serra de Tramuntana: UNESCO World Heritage Site
The mountains in Mallorca, the Serra de Tramuntana, were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011 for their unique blend of natural beauty and cultural significance. The mountains showcase centuries of human interaction, particularly through terraced farming and advanced irrigation systems introduced by the Moors and adapted by later civilizations. The region features dramatic landscapes of rugged peaks, valleys, and coastal cliffs.
Alfabia Gardens
The Alfabia Gardens (Jardines de Alfabia) are a stunning historical estate located at the foot of the Serra de Tramuntana mountains, near the town of Bunyola. These gardens are part of a larger property that includes a beautiful manor house and date back to Moorish times when the estate was originally an Arab farmstead. The name “Alfabia” is derived from the Arabic word al-fabiya, meaning “jar of olives,” reflecting the estate’s agricultural roots.
The gardens are a harmonious blend of Moorish, Renaissance, and Baroque styles, showcasing centuries of different cultural influences. Visitors can explore lush, terraced gardens filled with palm trees, orange groves, lemon trees, cypresses, and exotic plants and flowers. A particular highlight is the water features, including a long pergola adorned with stone arches that spray gentle jets of water, creating a cooling effect during warm summer days.
The manor house itself is just as captivating, with rooms featuring antique furniture, tapestries, and artworks that reflect the estate’s noble past. The Moorish ceilings and Renaissance patios offer a glimpse into the property’s rich history, which has been inhabited and carefully maintained by various prominent families over the centuries.
Train to Sóller
The Train to Sóller (Ferrocarril de Sóller) is one of Mallorca’s most popular tourist journeys. It offers a unique travel experience that dates back to the early 20th century. This historic train line runs between Palma and the charming town of Sóller, located in the Serra de Tramuntana.
The train, inaugurated in 1912, was originally intended to facilitate the transportation of goods, particularly citrus fruits like oranges and lemons, from Sóller to Palma. Before the construction of the railway, the mountainous terrain made traveling between the two towns difficult, and the train played a crucial role in boosting trade.
The Sóller train is famous for its vintage wooden carriages and well-preserved traditional features, which give passengers a nostalgic feel of early 20th-century travel. The line stretches for about 27 kilometers, passes through 13 tunnels, and crosses several bridges. The journey also includes a stop at a scenic viewpoint, where passengers can enjoy panoramic views of the Sóller Valley.
Upon arrival in Sóller, visitors can explore the picturesque town, known for its narrow streets, Modernist architecture, bustling main square, and beautiful churches.
Port de Sóller
Many travelers also opt to continue their adventure by taking the tram from Sóller to the nearby Port de Sóller, which offers stunning seaside views.
Bring a long lens if you want a peak into the lifestyles of the rich and famous on the luxury yachts in the harbor.
5 Star Views
We had a luxurious lunch at the Belmond La Residencia. The Belmond La Residencia was originally built from two 16th-century manor houses in the village of Deià. However, Richard Branson, the British entrepreneur and founder of the Virgin Group, transformed it into a luxury hotel in the early 1980s. Branson fell in love with the area’s natural beauty and sought to create a retreat that preserved the historic charm of the buildings while offering high-end accommodations.
Beyond its luxurious accommodations, La Residencia features two restaurants: El Olivo and Café Miró. El Olivo is the hotel’s flagship restaurant, featuring a 16th-century olive press. Café Miro is named after the famous Catalan artist Joan Miró. This restaurant provides a range of Spanish tapas, and light Mediterranean dishes served on a terrace with panoramic views. The restaurant also features a collection of works by Miró.
The West Coast
Driving the west coast of Mallorca will lead along jagged cliffs and hills studded with olive trees that date back hundreds or even a thousand years. This is not where you will find Mallorca’s beaches, but you may get a rare glimpse of celebrities like Michael Douglas, who has a home there.
Valldemossa
Another worthwhile stop in the mountains is the charming historic village of Valldemossa, known for its art galleries, local crafts, and charming cafes. Located about 17 kilometers from Palma, the village is in a picturesque valley surrounded by olive and almond groves.
Valldemossa is most famous for its Royal Charterhouse (Real Cartuja de Valldemossa), a former monastery founded in the 14th century. This historic site gained international recognition when the composer Frédéric Chopin and the writer George Sand spent the winter of 1838-1839 there. Chopin composed some of his most famous works during his stay, while Sand wrote the book “A Winter in Majorca,” which recounts their time in the village.
Villagers in the 1830s were scandalized when they learned that the younger Chopin was not Sand’s husband (or son). Today, the village has a museum dedicated to Chopin, so all has apparently been forgiven.
Valldemossa is also the birthplace of Saint Catherine of Palma, a mystic known for the wisdom of her advice.
Central and West Mallorca
Salty Cycling
During my recent trip to Mallorca, I tried a very different activity: Salty Cycling. This outfit uses what looks like a blend of an exercise bike and two underwater hydrofoils. The idea is that when you get this electric bike going fast enough, it rises out of the water like a hydrofoil.
Salty Cycling is located in Can Picafort on the east coast of Mallorca because this region and the flat central plain are very popular with cyclists. When the summer ends and cooler weather comes to the island, many professional and amateur cyclists come to Mallorca. The entrepreneurs behind Salty Cycling want to turn this not just into an activity but a full-fledged sport appealing to the cyclist crowd.
When we watched the instructors do it, it looked easy, but it proved much more tricky in practice. During a 90-minute lesson, we got better and better but did not quite master it.
First, you must push the bike under the water as it wants to float at the waterline. You then have to get on the bike while it is still submerged, balancing it so that you don’t fall off before you even start. You then have to turn the pedals one full revolution, allowing you to start the electric motor. As you start moving, you need to get a feel for steering the bike, still half submerged, as shown above. Finally, when you have control of it, you give it full throttle and rise out of the water… in theory. I mastered all that, but when I gave it full throttle, the bike didn’t have enough juice to lift me out. We ran out of time before my instructor could find someone to turn up the throttle.
Rafa Nadal Museum Xperience
Speaking of sports, the Rafa Nadal Sports Centre in Manacor, Mallorca, is a state-of-the-art sports complex dedicated to fostering athletic excellence and providing world-class training facilities. Opened in 2016, it serves as the home of the Rafa Nadal Academy by Movistar, a high-performance training academy designed to develop young athletes in sports like tennis.
In addition to the academy, the sports center includes the Rafa Nadal Museum Xperience, which celebrates Nadal’s legacy and offers interactive sports activities for visitors. Visitors can engage in various virtual reality simulations and sports challenges, such as racing Formula 1 cars, rowing, or testing their reflexes in virtual tennis games.
Drach Caves
Continue your adventure with a visit to the Drach Caves in Porto Cristo. These caves feature the usual stalactites and stalagmites but also an underground concert and a boat ride on an underground river. I visited these caves in August, at the height of the tourist season, and they were overcrowded, so I skipped the long wait for the boat ride. They might be a better activity for the shoulder season or the off-season. They are open all year except for the week after Christmas.
Finca Aubocassa
Finca Aubocassa is a historic estate located near the town of Manacor, known for producing some of the island’s finest extra virgin olive oil. Set in the fertile countryside, this 14th-century finca (traditional rural estate) is surrounded by olive groves, where the focus is on sustainable and organic farming. The estate is dedicated to producing high-quality olive oil but not in the traditional fashion.
The 3000 trees that they planted are all a single olive variety, Arbequina. I did not know that was not a thing. We were told that most olive producers don’t even know what varieties they have.
The olives are harvested and processed within hours to ensure freshness, resulting in an award-winning extra virgin olive oil celebrated for its smooth texture and balanced taste. The oil is extracted using a centrifuge instead of the traditional pressing process.
Visitors to Finca Aubocassa can take guided tours of the estate, learning about both traditional and modern methods of olive cultivation and oil production. The tours often include a walk through the olive groves (unless you visit on a rainy day as we did), visiting the processing facilities, and tasting the oils produced on-site.
Sanctuary of Sant Salvador
The Sanctuary of San Salvador is a historic hilltop monastery near the town of Felanitx. Perched at 1673 feet (510 meters) on Puig de Sant Salvador, it offers wonderful panoramic views of the island’s southeastern part. The site has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries.
The sanctuary was founded in 1348 during a plague that ravaged Mallorca. It was believed that the hilltop offered a safe refuge from the disease, and over time, a small hermitage developed into a larger religious complex. Today, visitors can explore the church, which houses a statue of the Virgin Mary, a monumental cross, and a large Christ the King statue erected nearby.
The winding road leading up to San Salvador is popular among cyclists and hikers, although I would not want to cycle that road personally.
Northern Mallorca
Of all the places we visited in Mallorca, my favorite may be the northern part of the island near the Bay of Pollença and the rugged Cap de Formentor.
Pollença
The town of Pollença is up the hill from the bay, in an area that would have been more protected from pirate raids on the island in medieval times. One of Pollença’s most iconic landmarks is the Calvari Steps, a long, steep staircase with 365 steps leading up to the small El Calvari Chapel. We got a ride to the top of the hill and then descended the steps into the old town. On Good Friday, the town has a candlelight procession up the hill to the chapel.
Watch for the tiny Sol y Tierra delicatessen on the right-hand side as you walk down the steps. One regret from my trip was not taking home a bottle of their raspberry balsamic vinegar.
The Museu de Pollença, located in the historic Convent of Santo Domingo, is the main art space in Pollença. Established in 1975, the museum features a modern and contemporary art collection, including works by local and international artists. It also hosts temporary exhibitions and performances.
Son Sant Jordi is a boutique hotel in the heart of Pollença, set in a restored 17th-century Mallorcan house. It offers an intimate stay with individually decorated rooms that combine rustic charm and modern comfort. Guests can enjoy a peaceful courtyard garden with a pool and a Mediterranean cuisine restaurant. Its central location allows easy access to Pollença’s main attractions, making it a relaxing retreat for visitors.
Teixits Vicens is a renowned family-run textile workshop located in Pollença that has been specializing in traditional weaving, locally known as “roba de llengües” (clothing of tongues) since 1854. This artisanal fabric, characterized by its distinctive flame-like patterns, is created using a complex dyeing and weaving process that dates back centuries.
At Teixits Vicens, weaving is done on traditional looms, and the workshop takes pride in maintaining the authenticity of the craft. Visitors can tour the workshop to see the process firsthand and observe how the vibrant patterns and colors are carefully crafted into high-quality textiles.
View from my room at the Hotel Illa d’Or
Port de Pollença
Port de Pollença, located on the northern coast of Mallorca, is a beautiful and serene seaside town known for its stunning beaches, tranquil bay, and relaxed atmosphere. Originally a small fishing village, it has become a popular destination for travelers seeking a peaceful getaway. The long Pine Walk promenade along the waterfront highlights Port de Pollença, offering a scenic stroll shaded by pine trees, seaside restaurants, shops, and cafes with views of the calm blue waters of the bay.
I stayed at the historic Hotel Illa d’Or (see my review), a beautiful historic property on the bay. Since its opening in 1929, the hotel has attracted a well-heeled clientele, especially from England. The hotel was even featured in a short story by former guest Agatha Christie called “Problem at Pollensa Bay.”
Mirador Es Colomer – Cap de Formentor
Cap de Formentor
Cap de Formentor, located on Mallorca’s northernmost tip, is one of the island’s most dramatic and scenic destinations. Known as the “Meeting point of the winds,” this rugged peninsula is famed for its towering cliffs, which rise to over 900 feet and offer breathtaking panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea and the surrounding landscape. The winding road leading to Cap de Formentor is a popular route for cyclists and drivers. Visitors can stop at the Mirador Es Colomer, a famous viewpoint that offers one of the best vistas of the jagged coastline and turquoise waters.
If money is no object, you can stay at Hotel Formentor, a historic property (now a Four Seasons) that hosts royalty and celebrities. Surrounded by lush gardens and stunning views of the Mediterranean, the hotel is one of the premier hotels on the island.
Alcudia
Alcúdia dates back to the 13th century and retains much of its well-preserved medieval walls. The heart of Alcúdia is its old town, a labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets lined with traditional houses, charming cafes, and boutiques enclosed by ancient walls built to protect the town from pirate attacks.
One of the key historical attractions is the Roman city of Pollentia, located just outside Alcúdia’s walls. Founded in 123 BC, Pollentia was one of the most important Roman settlements in the Balearic Islands. Visitors can explore the archaeological site, which includes the remains of a Roman forum, houses, and an amphitheater.
Conclusion
In conclusion, if you still love Mallorca for its beaches, more power to you. But you can also fall in love with it for its beautiful villages, its history, its rugged mountains, and its people. Is Mallorca worth visiting? Yes… and for so many reasons.
We flew to Mallorca on a direct United Airlines flight from NYC’s Newark Airport, which operates seasonally in the warmer months, May through September. This flight makes it that much easier for Americans to visit Mallorca.
As mentioned above, the Tourism Board of Mallorca and the Tourism Board of Spain paid for my trip. I am grateful to both, but all opinions expressed are my own.</em
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by Chris Christensen
Chris Christensen is the creator of the Amateur Traveler blog and podcast. He has been a travel creator since 2005 and has won awards including being named the "Best Independent Travel Journalist" by Travel+Leisure Magazine.+Chris Christensen | @chris2x | facebook
