Travel to Slovenia – Episode 987

Hear about travel to Slovenia as Chris talks with travel writer Sam Baldwin about an active, slightly off-the-beaten-path itinerary through one of Europe’s most underrated countries.

Sam has been visiting Slovenia since 2007, lived there for five years, and recommends a road trip that combines Ljubljana, alpine lakes, mountain scenery, rivers, wine country, and a few unusual cultural experiences. His experiences of living, working, and exploring the wildlife and wild places of this stunning country are told in his travel memoir book, Dormice & Moonshine: Falling for Slovenia.

Why should you go to Slovenia?

Sam describes Slovenia as beautiful, safe, compact, and surprisingly diverse. In a short drive, you can go from alpine scenery to Mediterranean-influenced landscapes, from lakes and mountains to wine regions and warm rivers. He also emphasizes that Slovenia feels much more Central European than many travelers expect.

Recommended itinerary

Sam’s suggested route starts in Ljubljana, continues to Lake Bohinj in Triglav National Park, then goes by motorail train to Most na Soči, on to the Soča region and Bovec, then Kranjska Gora, south to Cerknica and Lake Cerknica, and finally southeast to the Kolpa River and Bela krajina wine country. He recommends doing this trip by rental car for maximum flexibility.

Ljubljana

Begin in Ljubljana with a walk along the river through the old center. Sam recommends Tivoli City Park, a walk up Rožnik for views, and a meal at a local inn. For food and drink, he highlights ČRNO ZRNO for specialty coffee, Projekt Beershop & Bar for craft beer, and the food market – Open Kitchen (Odprta kuhna) if you are in town on a Friday. For a more alternative side of the city, he suggests Metelkova. He also recommends ONE66 Hotel, Ljubljana, as a good base.

Side trips from Ljubljana

Sam suggests Škofja Loka and Kamnik as easy side trips from the capital, both roughly half an hour away and good for a half-day outing.

Lake Bohinj and Triglav National Park

Rather than spending much time at crowded Lake Bled, Sam recommends heading farther west to Lake Bohinj, which he prefers for its more dramatic setting and outdoor activities. He suggests swimming, kayaking, paddleboarding, camping, or staying in Stara Fužina or on one of Slovenia’s tourist farms. From Bohinj, he recommends going up Vogel for views, visiting Pokljuka, and seeing the preserved hayracks near Studor v Bohinju. If visiting in September, he recommends the Cow Ball in Bohinj.

Motorail train and Most na Soči

From Bohinj, Sam recommends taking one of Slovenia’s quirky motorail trains, driving your car onto the train and riding through the mountains to Most na Soči. He describes it as both a practical shortcut and a fun travel experience.

Soča Valley and Bovec

The next stop is the Soča region, famous for its striking blue-green river. Sam recommends Bovec as a base for rafting, kayaking, hiking, mountain biking, and other outdoor activities.

Kranjska Gora

From there, continue to Kranjska Gora for more alpine scenery, hiking, and views of the Julian Alps. Sam notes that it is best known as a ski resort in winter but is also worth visiting in summer.

Cerknica and Lake Cerknica

Heading south, Sam recommends Cerknica and Lake Cerknica, Europe’s largest disappearing lake. He also suggests a knife-making workshop with Lenart Perko – EMBERBORN.

Kolpa and Bela krajina

Finish in southeastern Slovenia along the Kolpa River and in Bela krajina. Sam recommends the Kolpa for easy rafting and kayaking, especially around Stari Trg ob Kolpi, and the Bela krajina region for wine and for seeing the unusual Wine Bank.

Other places Sam recommends

Additional places he mentions include the Park of Military History, the National Gallery of Slovenia, the Museum of Modern Art (Ljubljana), Logarska Dolina, and Jezersko.

Sponsors

Upgrade your wardrobe with high-quality essentials and get free shipping and 365-day returns at Quince.com/TRAVELER.

Save 50% on Unlimited premium wireless plans starting at $15/month at MintMobile.com/traveler.

subscribe: rss feed | Apple podcasts
right click here to download (mp3)

Show Notes

Sam Baldwin
Dormice & Moonshine: Falling for Slovenia.
Travel to Slovenia (Podcast) – Amateur Traveler
ONE66 Hotel, Ljubljana
Tivoli City Park
Rožnik (hill)
ČRNO ZRNO (coffee bar)
projekt Beershop & Bar
Odprta kuhna (open kitchen)
Metelkova
Škofja Loka
Kamnik
Lake Bohinj
Triglav National Park
Stara Fužina
Farm Stay Slovenia
Vogel (mountain)
Pokljuka
Studor v Bohinju
Cow Ball in Bohinj
Most na Soči
Motorail trains
Soča
Bovec
Kranjska Gora
Lenart Perko – EMBERBORN
Cerknica
Lake Cerknica
Kolpa
Bela krajina
Wine Bank
Börek
Jota (soup)
Hot Horse Burger – Gastro Obscura
Carniolan sausage
Edible Dormouse – Gastro Obscura
Cockta
Brewery Tektonik and Tap Room Tektonix
Park of Military History
National Gallery of Slovenia
Museum of Modern Art (Ljubljana)
Loška Dolina
Jezersko

Community

On the episode Travel to Dublin, Ireland – Episode 986

I would suggest trying to visit Ypres when the Kattenstoet (Cat Parade) occurs.  It’s a unique festival originating in 1937 from a 15th-century tradition of throwing live cats from the belfry to clear them from the city.  The highlight of the festival is the cat parade with giant feline puppets & costumes and concludes with the throwing of plush cats from the belfry tower to the crowds below.  It is quirky and fun.  It’s held only every three years, and the next one will be May 9, 2027.

Jeff Ohlfs

Give me your feedback on the show at AmateurTraveler.com/1000
Amateur Traveler Trips