Visiting Troy, Gallipoli, and the Dardanelles in Turkey

categories: europe travel, asia travel

Trojan Horse statue

On a recent trip to Turkey (Türkiye), I had a chance to visit the historically significant Dardanelles Strait, including the site of ancient Troy, Alexandria Troas, which is mentioned in the Bible, and the site of the battle of Gallipoli in WWI.

The Significance of the Dardanelles: A Strategic and Historical Crossroads

The Dardanelles, also known as the Hellespont, is a narrow strait in northwest Türkiye that connects the Aegean Sea to the Sea of Marmara. Its strategic location has made it one of the most significant waterways in history, serving as both a gateway and a battleground for civilizations across millennia. Stretching approximately 60 kilometers (37 miles) in length and varying between 0.75 to 3.7 miles (1.2 and 6 kilometers) in width, the Dardanelles acts as a natural divide between Europe and Asia. Control of the strait has historically meant control of access to the Black Sea and the broader Mediterranean world.

Mythology and Ancient History

The Dardanelles is steeped in legend and myth. In Greek mythology, Hercules fought a war with Troy years before the Trojan War, which is famously chronicled in Homer’s Iliad. The ancient city of Troy, located near the strait, relied on its proximity for trade and defense.

Historically, the Dardanelles was a key passage for the Persians, Greeks, and Romans. The Persian king Xerxes I famously constructed a bridge of boats across the strait during his invasion of Greece in 480 BCE, while Alexander the Great crossed it in his quest to conquer Asia.

The Ottoman Empire and Modern History

Under the Ottoman Empire, the Dardanelles became a critical component of the empire’s dominance over trade routes. The Ottomans fortified the strait with castles and artillery to secure their hold over this crucial waterway.

The Dardanelles gained international attention during World War I, with the Gallipoli Campaign marking one of its most defining moments. The Allied forces sought to gain control of the strait to open a direct route to Russia and weaken the Ottoman Empire. However, the campaign ended in failure for the Allies, with heavy casualties on both sides. This battle also led to the fame of the local Ottoman commander Mustafa Kemal, who became Attaturk, the founder and first president of modern Turkey.

 

Visiting the Dardanelles

I visited the Dardanelles as part of a press trip sponsored by the Turkish Tourism Board. We started our trip at the Istanbul Airport (IST) and ended it in the Sultanamet neighborhood of Istanbul.

Day 1: Arrival

After meeting my group in the early evening, we embarked on a scenic two-hour drive to Tekirdağ, a city on the European coast of the Sea of Marmara our first destination.

We stayed at the Ramada Hotel Tekirdağ, which I will review in more detail in a later post.

Dinner was held at the Barbare Vineyard in Tekirdağ’s wine region. This was a bit of a conundrum for me. As a rule, I don’t drink alcohol in a Muslim country out of respect for my hosts, but when the tourism board takes you to a vineyard, such rules seem inappropriate.

The winery was popular with locals based on the number of large groups we saw celebrating special occasions. The dinner was a collection of traditional dishes, including kofte, traditional Turkish meatballs, local cheeses, a type of local quiche, fava bean cake, and a salad with pomegranates (almost ubiquitous in Turkey), rice, and the local wine. I loved the ambiance of this warm family-run vineyard and quite enjoyed their wines, especially the medium-body red wines. As good as the food was, I would have been content even if we had only had the local cheese and a glass of their red wine.

Day 2: Ancient Wonders of Troy

The Ruins of Alexandria Troas

The second day began with an early breakfast at the Ramada Hotel Tekirdağ and a drive across the new bridge across the Dardanelles to the small town of Dalyan on the Asian coast. We were here to visit the ruins of Alexandria Troas, a city founded by one of Alexander the Great’s generals after his wars of conquest of this area and Persia. 

In the Book of Acts, chapter 16 of the Bible, the Apostle Paul came to Alexandria Troas. It was here that the writer Luke records that Paul had a vision of a Macedonian man begging him to “Come over to Macedonia and help us.” Paul left here by ship to bring the gospel to Europe for the first time in his ministry.

ruins of the port of Alexandria Troas

We first walked to the shore, past a pink-hued lake, where a small hint of the ancient port of Alexandria Troas can be seen in the columns jutting out of the water. This area has not yet been excavated, so there may be more to see in the future.

Traveling Soon? These useful links will help you prepare for your trip.
ruins of Alexandria Troas

The actual ruins of Alexandria Troas are fairly small compared to other Roman or Greek sites, but the remnants of a bathhouse and other structures, hint at its importance in ancient times. 

film crew at Alexandria Troas

We happened to visit the site at the same time as a Turkish film crew was filming for an upcoming Turkish movie. Our guide recognized a few of the actors who are well-known for playing bad guys in Turkish cinema. Strangely enough, this is, by my count, the 4th time I have encountered a film crew in my travels.

We drove to the ruins of Tory near the modern-day city of Çanakkale. We ate lunch at a restaurant called Olea, which is across from the Troy Museum. We enjoyed traditional Turkish cuisine with more kofte, chicken, or fish.

walls of Troy

The Complicated Ruins of Troy

The highlight of the day was our visit to the ancient city of Troy, a UNESCO World Heritage Site immortalized in Homer’s epic poems, The Iliad and The Odyssey. The city’s strategic location at the crossroads of trade routes between the Aegean and Anatolia made it a center of commerce and culture. Archaeological evidence indicates that Troy was occupied as early as the Early Bronze Age, around 3000 BCE. Over the millennia, the city experienced repeated destruction and rebuilding, ultimately forming a multilayered archaeological site that reflects its enduring significance in the ancient world.

Schliemann trench at Troy

Troy’s excavation began in 1870, spearheaded by Heinrich Schliemann, a German archaeologist fascinated by Homeric epics. His work revealed the city’s extensive history, but his excavation methods were controversial, crude, and often destructive, as he dug through upper layers to reach what he believed to be the Troy of the Trojan War. Archaeologists have since identified nine distinct layers of settlement, labeled Troy I through Troy IX, spanning nearly 4,000 years of history. I was surprised that archeologists think that it was continuously inhabited through those many versions of the city.

Each layer reflects a different period, from the Early Bronze Age to the Roman era. Schliemann famously uncovered what he called “Priam’s Treasure,” though its connection to Homer’s Troy remains debated. Schliemann notoriously smuggled the treasure out of the country to avoid giving the Ottoman Empire an agreed-upon 50/50 split of anything he found. His wife wore some of the jewelry found in the treasure as they left. To my surprise, he was later allowed back into the country after paying back what he owed the Ottomans.

Troy ruins

Schliemann’s successor, Wilhelm Dörpfeld, conducted more systematic excavations and established a clearer understanding of Troy’s stratigraphy. Carl Blegen, an American archaeologist, advanced the study of Troy in the 1930s, providing detailed analyses of its nine layers and associating the destruction of Troy VIIa with the timeframe of the mythical Trojan War, around 1200 BCE. In the late 20th century, Manfred Korfmann employed advanced technologies such as ground-penetrating radar and 3D imaging, uncovering extensive fortifications, palaces, and evidence of a vibrant urban center.

Tory is a complex site. Because the city has different layers, the archeologists had to decide when to stop diffing and which layers to display. In addition, some parts of the city were used across multiple versions of the city. It is not as if there are nine layers to the city in every location. Rather than show only one coherent city plan from a single era, they dug to different depths in different places and then labeled which version of the city you are looking at in each location. 

ruins of Troy

I had previously heard that the site was small. It was larger than I expected. My joy in seeing the site was actually standing in the place that I had first heard about so many years ago. Was there really a Trojan War, just like it was described in the Illiad with heroes like Achilles, Odysseus, Hector, and Paris? Probably not. But Troy was a real place for a very long time.

Beware of gifts bearing Greeks

The Museum of Troy

After an hour of exploring Alexandria Troas, we headed to the Museum of Troy, a wonderfully modern museum that brought the historic city of Troy to life. This museum has three floors and houses an impressive collection of artifacts uncovered from the ruins of Troy, including pottery, weapons, and jewelry.

You can have your photo taken behind a small version of a Trojan horse. The Trojan Horse taught us to “beware of Greeks bearing gifts,” although perhaps the real lesson should have been to “beware of gifts bearing Greeks.”

Do it yourself model of ancient Troy... some assembly required

Do it yourself model of ancient Troy… some assembly is required

Tory Museum

 

map of one version of ancient Troy

 

The museum has traditional displays, interactive displays, and a hint of whimsy. I appreciated a few video displays near the cafe and giftshop that brought the Trojan Horse to life and showed imperial stormtroopers visiting the ancient site.

Çanakkale

The city of Çanakkale is a large coastal city near the ancient site. It is a University town with lively nightlife and a coastal promenade. It hosts yet another version of the Trojan Horse, which is a prop from the Brad Pitt movie Troy.

Çanakkale

Statue of Attaturk

We visited on November 10th, which is the anniversary of the death of Attaturk. There were ceremonies held throughout the country and remembrances placed in front of his statue in Çanakkale as well.

Hayati Şef memorial to Attaturk

After sunset, we went to Hayati Şef restaurant for a traditional Turkish dinner. This restaurant specializes in seafood. It is one of a string of restaurants along the coast in the city. It also had one table set aside as a small memorial to Attaturk on this day.

The day concluded with our arrival at the DoubleTree by Hilton Çanakkale, where we checked in for the night at this comfortable seaside hotel.

Gallipoli

Day 3: Reflections on Gallipoli

After breakfast at the hotel, we hopped into the van and took the ferry across the Dardanelles to the site of the WWI battle on the Gallipoli Peninsula.

The Gallipoli Campaign was primarily the brainchild of Winston Churchill, then First Lord of the Admiralty in Britain. Churchill believed that a naval assault on the Dardanelles Strait, followed by a land invasion of the Gallipoli Peninsula, could force the Ottoman Empire out of the war and open up a vital supply route to Russia. His idea was supported by several other Allied leaders, including Lord Kitchener, Britain’s Secretary of State for War.

The Gallipoli Campaign lasted from February 19, 1915, to January 9, 1916. It began with naval operations aimed at forcing passage through the Dardanelles Strait but transitioned into a full-scale amphibious invasion of the Gallipoli Peninsula on April 25, 1915. The campaign continued for several months as Allied forces from Britain, France, Australia, New Zealand (ANZAC), and other nations faced fierce resistance from Ottoman troops commanded by Mustafa Kemal (later Atatürk) and German advisors.

Gallipoli

The Gallipoli Campaign holds profound significance for Australia and New Zealand, as it marked the first major military engagement of the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC) during World War I. The campaign became a defining moment in the national consciousness of both countries, symbolizing bravery, sacrifice, and camaraderie under incredibly harsh conditions. Despite the military failure, the heroism of the ANZAC soldiers, who faced formidable terrain, logistical challenges, and relentless Ottoman resistance, earned them enduring respect and a legacy of resilience.

Gallipoli is also seen as a critical step in the emergence of distinct Australian and New Zealand national identities, separate from their colonial ties to Britain. The shared experiences and losses at Gallipoli fostered a sense of unity and pride, commemorated annually on ANZAC Day (April 25). This day of remembrance honors not only those who fought and died at Gallipoli but all Australians and New Zealanders who have served in military conflicts. 

Our guide led us through key locations, including memorials, cemeteries, and preserved trenches, sharing stories of heroism, hardship, and resilience. The ANZAC (Australian and New Zealand Army Corps) Memorial was particularly moving, with inscriptions and plaques commemorating the soldiers who fought valiantly far from their homelands. The Turkish 57th Regiment Memorial offered a parallel perspective, honoring the Ottoman soldiers who defended their territory with equal bravery.

ANZAC cemetary

We started at the beaches where the ANZAC forces landed, where we visited some of the cemeteries that held the first casualties of their forces.

We made our way up to the high ground where the Turkish forces awaited. Our climb was a leisurely drive, while theirs was a hellish endeavor. 

Along the way, there are memorials to the Allied losses, like this one quoting Attaturk in 1934:

“These heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives… You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours… You, the mothers, who sent their sons from faraway countries, wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land, they have become our sons as well.”

Near the top of the ridge, you get to the cemetery of the 57th Ottoman Infantry Regiment, of whom Attaturk would later say, “a famous regiment this, because it was completely wiped out.” This was among the first Ottoman units to arrive. They held the high ground at great cost. The unit did not, in fact, fight to the last man, but they did lose half their numbers in the fight for Gallipoli. After terrible losses in 1918 at the Battle of Megiddo in Palestine, the regiment was considered destroyed. 

Mustafa Kemal coordinating the defense

A new installation at the park is a statue of Mustafa Kemal (Attaturk) coordinating the defense from the heights overlooking the landing beaches. This statue recreates a famous photograph taken during the fighting. With its commanding view of the peninsula, it is obvious why this ridge became such a place of heavy fighting.

peak of Chunuk Bair

New Zealand troops finally fought to the high ground on the peak of Chunuk Bair on August 7th, 1915, but could not hold it. As with much of the campaign, problems coordinating the actions of Allied troops may have doomed the effort.

Possibly, the only thing that went well for the Allied troops was the withdrawal. Despite being so close to the Ottoman forces, all the Allied troops were able to pull out by 20 December without incident. One of the clever devices used to conceal their withdrawal was Australian Private William Scurry’s invention of a self-firing rifle. The rifle was attached to a sort of water clock that pulled the trigger even after the soldiers had left their positions.

One of the members of our group was from Australia, where she had grown up with ANZAC day remembrances. The history of Galippoli is only more poignant if you have that kind of connection.



Return to Istanbul

After lunch at another local restaurant, we headed back to Istanbul. The drive from Gallipoli to Istanbul takes 3-4 hours, depending on the traffic in the city, which can be slow.

In Istanbul, we checked into the Motto Hotel Sultanahmet, a boutique hotel situated in the heart of the city’s historic Sultanahmet district. After settling in, we headed to Giritli Restaurant, renowned for its Aegean-inspired cuisine. The multi-course meal featured a medley of mezes and fresh seafood paired with Turkish wines. The cozy atmosphere and impeccable hospitality made it a perfect way to end the day.

Conclusion

The Dardanelles remains a geographically and historically significant place. From the history and legend of ancient Troy to the real-life heroism and pathos of the Gallipoli battlefield, this fascinating area is worth a visit. 

The Turkish Tourism Board partially supported this trip as part of the SATW (Society of American Travel Writers) conference in Istanbul.

Visiting Troy, Gallipoli, and the Dardanelles in Turkey #troy #turkey #türkiye #Gallipoli #wwi #attaturk #travel #vacation #trip #holiday

Share this:
Chris Christensen

by Chris Christensen

Chris Christensen is the creator of the Amateur Traveler blog and podcast. He has been a travel creator since 2005 and has won awards including being named the "Best Independent Travel Journalist" by Travel+Leisure Magazine.

Leave a Reply

Tags: , , , ,