Travel to Fiji (Yasawa Islands, Taveuni, Ovalau, and Viti Levu) – Episode 1003

categories: pacific travel tags: audio travel podcast, fiji, podcast

Plan an unforgettable trip to Fiji with this guide to the Yasawa Islands, Taveuni, Ovalau, Suva, Viti Levu, and more. Discover beautiful beaches, snorkeling and diving spots, hiking trails, historic towns, village etiquette, kava culture, local food, resorts, transportation tips, and practical advice for exploring Fiji’s islands.

Hear about travel to Fiji as the Amateur Traveler talks to Jonty Crane from jontytravels.com about this island nation where he lived this year.

Why should you visit Fiji?

Jonty says, “Fiji offers the classic South Pacific island experience, with excellent snorkeling and diving, attractive beaches, and welcoming people. It also has a well-established tourism industry, which accounts for approximately 40% of the economy. Fiji attracts around one million visitors each year, representing about 60% of all tourism in the South Pacific.”

Jonty’s Experience in Fiji

Jonty spent six months living in Suva, Fiji’s capital, and took four longer trips to different parts of the country.

In this episode, Jonty describes four trips of two to five days each. They can be combined into a longer island-hopping itinerary, as many visitors do.

Fiji is also a popular stopover for travelers taking longer trips to Australia or New Zealand. It is an especially popular vacation destination for Australians and New Zealanders.

Geography

Fiji is an archipelago of more than 330 islands, about one-third of which are inhabited.

It is approximately:

Three hours by air north of New Zealand
Four hours by air east of Australia, roughly aligned with Cairns
Eleven to twelve hours west of the US West Coast

A Brief History of Fiji

The islands were first settled around 3,000 years ago.

Europeans arrived in greater numbers during the 19th century, and Fiji became a British colony in 1874. The British brought indentured laborers from India to work on sugar plantations. Today, Indo-Fijians make up approximately 37% of the population.

Fiji gained independence in 1970. The country experienced political instability and several military coups between 1987 and 2006, but today it is a stable democracy.

Yasawa Islands

Recommended time: 3–5 days

The Yasawa Islands are a collection of approximately 20 volcanic islands northwest of Nadi. Depending on the destination, the journey takes between two and five hours aboard the Yasawa Flyer or a resort boat.

Until 1987, the Fijian government prohibited land-based tourism in the Yasawa Group. The traditional ruler of the islands opposed tourism and was largely outside the government’s control.

Blue Lagoon Beach Resort

Jonty stayed at Blue Lagoon Beach Resort, a good example of a Fijian island resort. Accommodations include garden villas, beach villas, and newer yurts.

The resort has:

Two swimming pools
Two restaurants
A Japanese restaurant offering a ten-course dinner
A good reef just offshore for snorkeling
Guided snorkeling and diving excursions

The snorkeling directly from the beach includes plenty of fish, although the reefs reached by boat are better. A guided trip to two snorkeling sites costs approximately $55.

Similar sister properties include Octopus Resort and Paradise Cove Resort.

Hiking on Nacula Island

Jonty hiked to the highest point on Nacula Island. The hike takes a couple of hours and passes through a lush volcanic landscape, especially during the wet season.

The trail is easy to follow but can be steep and slippery. Hiking poles are worth bringing.

Sawa-i-Lau Caves

The Sawa-i-Lau Caves are one of the region’s most memorable attractions. Visitors swim inside the first cave and then pass beneath a small underwater opening to enter a second cavern.

Accommodations in Fiji

Fiji is primarily a resort destination. Unlike Samoa, it does not have many traditional fale-style accommodations.

Airbnbs are available but are not especially common. Some resorts offer hostel-style dormitory rooms.

Most resorts are located beside the water. The largest concentrations are found:

Near Nadi
Along the Coral Coast of Viti Levu
In the Mamanuca Islands
In the Yasawa Islands
On Taveuni
Along the southern coast of Vanua Levu

Resorts commonly offer village tours, church visits, massages, snorkeling, and diving, although the available activities vary by property.

Approximately two-thirds of Fiji’s tourism properties are locally owned, with many owned by the Fijian pension fund.

Taveuni Island

Recommended time: 3–5 days

Taveuni is Fiji’s third-largest island. It is known as the Garden Island because of its lush vegetation, although that greenery comes with frequent rain.

Rainbow Reef

Rainbow Reef lies between Taveuni and Vanua Levu, Fiji’s second-largest island. It is often described as the “soft coral capital of the world.”

A half-day trip costs approximately:

$35 for two snorkeling sessions
$100 for two dives

The reef is in open water, so participants should be confident swimmers.

Honeymoon Island

Jonty personally enjoyed snorkeling near Honeymoon Island even more than Rainbow Reef. The water is shallower, and the snorkeling area is much closer to shore.

Visitors can hire a local boatman or kayak to the island relatively easily.

Lavena Coastal Walk

The Lavena Coastal Walk is widely regarded as one of the best hikes in Fiji.

The approximately 10-kilometer, or 6.2-mile, out-and-back trail takes three to five hours. It is a relatively easy coastal walk ending at Wainibau Falls.

Admission is approximately $35.

Waitavala Waterslide

Taveuni’s natural waterslide is exciting enough to be fun without feeling excessively dangerous. Visitors should go with a local who understands the conditions and the safest route.

International Date Line

The International Date Line passes near Taveuni. The marker is a quick and entertaining photo stop.

Getting Around Taveuni

Jonty recommends renting a car for one or two days to explore the island’s land-based attractions.

Water activities are best arranged through a visitor’s accommodation. Most accommodations are located near the airport at the northern end of the island.

Flights from Nadi or Suva are the easiest way to reach Taveuni.

Ovalau and Moturiki Islands

Recommended time: 2 days

Jonty visited Ovalau and Moturiki through Kauwai Retreat, traveling from Suva. This arrangement is easier with a larger group, although visitors can also fly from Nadi to Levuka.

He traveled by boat from the eastern coast of Viti Levu to the relaxing Kauwai Retreat on Ovalau Island.

Moturiki Island

Jonty took a half-day hike on Moturiki Island, home to some of Fiji’s earliest Lapita archaeological sites. Fiji’s oldest known human skeleton, dating back approximately 3,000 years, was found there.

The island has no cars or mains electricity.

After the hike, his group had lunch with about half the village. The experience included kava, food, and dancing.

Village Etiquette and Kava Protocol

Visitors should follow local customs when entering a Fijian village:

Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered.
Ask permission before entering a village, ideally through a guide or host.
Remove hats and sunglasses.
Follow the local kava ceremony protocol.

When receiving kava:

Clap once.
Say “Bula.”
Drink the kava in one go.
Clap three times afterward.

Kava looks and tastes somewhat like muddy water. Jonty limited himself to one serving.

Levuka

Levuka served as Fiji’s first colonial capital for eight years, beginning in 1874. It is Fiji’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The town is somewhat run-down but atmospheric, with a scenic waterfront and numerous colonial-era buildings. There are few major individual attractions, but the historic streetscape is the main reason to visit.

Jonty’s trip concluded with some of the best snorkeling he has ever experienced, with vividly colored coral and large schools of fish.

Driving Around Viti Levu

Recommended time: 4–5 days

Suggested route: Nadi, Coral Coast, Suva, Rakiraki, and Lautoka

Viti Levu has the greatest number of conventional attractions, although it was Jonty’s least favorite of the four trips covered in this episode.

Nadi

Nadi is Fiji’s main tourism hub because of its international airport and boat connections to the Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands.

Nearby Denarau Island is a man-made resort area.

Major attractions include:

Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple, the largest Hindu temple in the Pacific
Garden of the Sleeping Giant
Sabeto Hot Springs and Mud Pool
Viseisei, a historic village said to be where the first Fijians arrived, although the experience is tourist-oriented

Coral Coast

The Coral Coast has numerous resorts and some reasonable snorkeling.

The Sigatoka Sand Dunes offer a four-kilometer, or 2.5-mile, walk through dunes ranging from 20 to 60 meters high.

Whitewater rafting is available in the Upper Navua Gorge.

Pacific Harbour

Pacific Harbour is approximately one hour east of Suva and is known as the Adventure Capital of Fiji.

Activities include:

Beaches
Resorts
Whitewater rafting
Jet skiing
Excursions to Beqa Island
Shark diving

Beqa was covered in another Amateur Traveler episode.

Several operators in Fiji offer shark-diving experiences. Some feed the sharks, guides have reportedly been bitten, and the experience can be physically and emotionally intense.

Suva

Suva has been Fiji’s capital since 1882. The greater urban area, including Lami, Nasinu, and Nausori, is home to approximately 330,000 people, more than one-third of Fiji’s population.

The city center is relaxed and walkable, with a number of colonial-era buildings.

Suva is not what most travelers imagine when they picture Fiji, but Jonty considers it a moderately interesting place to spend a day.

Religion in Suva

Suva is home to:

Christian churches
Hindu temples
Mosques
A Latter-day Saints temple
A Sikh temple
A Hare Krishna temple

Christianity is Fiji’s dominant religion, followed by Hinduism and Islam, reflecting the country’s cultural diversity.

Fiji also has one of the world’s largest Hare Krishna populations per capita.

Suva Municipal Market

Suva Municipal Market is worth exploring for its produce, local ingredients, and everyday city atmosphere.

Suva Seawall

The seawall walk is pleasant and especially popular around dawn and dusk.

Outdoor Attractions Near Suva

Approximately 20 minutes from the city are:

Colo-i-Suva Forest Park: Bushwalking trails and swimming holes
Mount Korobaba: Excellent views from the summit, although the trail is steep, slippery, and begins near a cement works

Fiji Museum and Historic Buildings

The Fiji Museum is worth visiting, and several heritage buildings can be found around the city center.

Parks and Wildlife

Thurston Gardens and Ratu Sukuna Park are small but pleasant green spaces with impressive tropical trees.

Thurston Gardens and the neighboring Government House grounds are home to giant fruit bats, which are most active around dusk.

Albert Park is a busy sports ground. Indigenous Fijians are passionate about rugby, while many Indo-Fijians enjoy cricket.

The park is overlooked by:

The Parliament of the Republic of Fiji, housed in a complex built during the 1930s
The Grand Pacific Hotel, commonly called the GPH, which opened in 1914

Suva Harbour

Suva Harbour contains a number of abandoned and shipwrecked boats. They can be particularly interesting to photograph with a drone.

Some people also kayak to the wrecks near Lami.

Reserve Bank of Fiji

The Reserve Bank, located near the Catholic cathedral, sells collectible currency, including a seven-dollar note celebrating Fiji’s success in rugby sevens.

Rakiraki

The drive from Suva to Rakiraki takes approximately three to four hours along the scenic Kings Road.

Possible stops include:

St. Francis Xavier Church, also known as the Church of the Black Christ
Volivoli, which offers good diving and snorkeling

Volivoli was the destination of Jonty’s first trip to Fiji.

Lautoka

The drive from Rakiraki to Lautoka takes approximately two hours.

Lautoka is Fiji’s second-largest city, with a population of around 80,000. Fiji’s western coast is considerably drier than the eastern side.

The city is a center of the sugarcane industry. Sugar was once a much larger part of Fiji’s economy than it is today.

There is not much to see in the city itself beyond:

A small botanical garden
A Hare Krishna temple

Food in Fiji

Fijian resorts generally serve a mixture of Western food and local dishes.

Common local ingredients include:

Coconut
Taro
Cassava
Fresh seafood

Two of Fiji’s best-known dishes are:

Lovo: Meat, fish, and vegetables cooked underground in an earth oven
Kokoda: Raw fish marinated in citrus juice and coconut cream

Many restaurants in Fijian towns serve fast food or Indian food. Jonty found that some of the country’s best dining was at resorts.

Getting to Fiji

Fiji is the best-connected island nation in the Pacific.

Nadi has direct flights to destinations including:

New Zealand
Australia
Vancouver
Tokyo
Singapore
Hong Kong
Honolulu
San Francisco
Los Angeles
Dallas–Fort Worth

Fiji Airways isn’t Jonty’s favorite airline. The crews are good, but he found the in-flight entertainment and food average, and the airline’s customer communication poor. Three of his six flights were delayed, including one delay of an entire day. Significant delays did not appear to be unusual.

Getting Around Fiji

Most visitors remain at their resort, which can usually arrange transportation from Nadi International Airport.

Driving around Fiji is relatively straightforward. Traffic is generally light, and the main roads are paved.

Cars are common, but motorcycles are much less prevalent than in many other parts of the world.

Ferries connect Fiji’s major islands, but domestic flights are generally the most practical way to travel longer distances. Most domestic flights operate from Nadi. Suva’s airport has more limited connections.

Safety

The vast majority of visitors experience no problems in Fiji, but travelers should exercise caution after dark in Nadi and Suva.

Alcohol-related behavior can occasionally be an issue, particularly around groups of young men.

Visitors are likely to spend considerable time on boats and in the water, so normal swimming, snorkeling, boating, and sun-safety precautions apply.

Languages

Fiji has three official languages:

English
Fijian
Fiji Hindi

English is widely spoken in the areas most frequently visited by tourists.

Occasionally, visitors may need to phrase a question in several different ways to receive the information they are looking for.

Costs

Fiji is not an inexpensive destination.

At a resort, travelers should budget separately for:

Accommodations
Meal plans
Transportation to and from the resort
Snorkeling and diving
Boat trips
Excursions and other activities

Meal plans are often necessary because there may be few or no alternative places to eat near a resort.

Some high-end resorts charge thousands of dollars per night.

The South Pacific is not generally a budget destination. Jonty found Fiji substantially more expensive than Samoa, although the standard of accommodations and tourism infrastructure was often higher.

Fiji should not be considered a particularly cheap backpacking destination.

Internet and Mobile Service

The main mobile providers are Vodafone and Digicel.

Visitors can purchase an eSIM or a physical SIM card. A plan offering approximately 120 GB of data for one month costs around $35.

Coverage can be patchy outside the main settlements. Most resorts offer Wi-Fi.

Climate and the Best Time to Visit

Fiji has a tropical maritime climate. Conditions are warm and humid throughout the year.

Temperatures generally range from:

77°F to 89.6°F
25°C to 32°C

The wet season lasts from November through April. Rain is more frequent, humidity is higher, and tropical storms are more likely.

Prices during the wet season may be approximately 30% lower, and there are usually fewer visitors.

The dry season and shoulder seasons generally offer the most comfortable conditions.

Additional Fiji Travel Tips

Resorts usually provide snorkeling equipment, but bringing a personal mask helps ensure a proper fit.
Resorts generally accept credit cards.
Credit cards have limited usefulness outside resorts and major towns.
Travelers should carry cash when visiting areas outside the cities.
ATMs are plentiful in cities but rare elsewhere.
Nightlife is primarily concentrated in Nadi and Denarau.
Fiji has fewer white-sand, postcard-style beaches than some visitors expect.

Show Notes

Jonty Travels
Volunteer Service Abroad
Pacific Tourism Organisation
Fiji
Viti Levu
Vanua Levu
Yasawa Islands
Blue Lagoon Beach Resort
Octopus Resort
Paradise Cove Resort
The Blue Lagoon (1980 film)
Sawa-i-Lau
Coral Coast
Mamanuca Islands
Taveuni
Rainbow Reef
Rainbow Reef tours
Lavena Coastal Walk
Waitavala Natural Rock Waterslide
International Date Line
Ovalau
Moturiki
Kauwai Retreat
Melanesia
Kava
Levuka Historical Port Town
Denarau Island
Nadi
Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple
Garden of the Sleeping Giant
Sabeto Hot Springs and Mud Pool
Viseisei Village
Sigatoka Sand Dunes
Pacific Harbour
Beqa Island
Suva
University of the South Pacific
Suva Municipal Market
Colo-i-Suva Forest Park
Mount Korobaba
Fiji Museum
Thurston Gardens
Government House, Suva
Albert Park (Suva)
Parliament of Fiji
Grand Pacific Hotel
Sacred Heart Cathedral, Suva
Kings Road
Church of the Black Christ
Rakiraki District
Volivoli Beach Resort
Lautoka
Fijian Kokoda – Fiji’s National Dish
Rotuma

Community

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Amateur Traveler Trips

by Chris Christensen

Chris Christensen is the creator of the Amateur Traveler blog and podcast. He has been a travel creator since 2005 and has won awards including being named the "Best Independent Travel Journalist" by Travel+Leisure Magazine.

+Chris Christensen | @chris2x | facebook

Tags: audio travel podcast, fiji, podcast