Travel to Germany’s Black Forest – Episode 939

Hear about travel to Germany’s Black Forest in Baden-Württemberg as the Amateur Traveler talks to Matt Kepnes (Nomadic Matt) about his visit to the hills and woods of southwest Germany.

Why should you go to the Black Forest?

Matt says, “You’ll find incredible hiking, lots of lakes, waterfalls, and cute little quintessential German towns with beautiful architecture. There are also a lot of hot springs around the Baden Baden area. Plus, there’s just great food and I just really loved the welcoming vibe of the people.”

Matt’s Suggested Black Forest Itinerary:

Day 1–2: Heidelberg

• Why go: It is a historic university town with vibrant nightlife, a beautiful old town, castle ruins, and great food.
• Highlights:
  • Heidelberg Castle (ruins)
  • Perimeter hiking trails and viewpoints
  • Heidelberg Student Jail (Mark Twain visited!)
  • Contemporary art museum
  • Nightlife: comedy shows and lively bars
• Tip: Hike up from the city center for great views; look for printed maps with trail info.

Day 3–4: Baden-Baden

• Why go: Known for its luxurious hot springs, historic spas, and elegant history.
• Highlights:
  • Friedrichsbad bathhouse (nude, historic)
  • Caracalla bathhouse (modern, swimsuits allowed)
  • Hohenbaden Old Castle (ruins on a hill)
  • City Museum Baden-Baden (well-curated and in English)
  • Riverside park and old mansions
• Tip: Take the funicular up to the castle and walk down through scenic parks.

Optional Stop: Offenburg

• Why go: It is a small medieval town with Roman roots and Gothic/baroque architecture.
• Highlights: Medieval walls, old churches, and a nice stop between Baden-Baden and Freiburg.

Day 5–7: Freiburg im Breisgau

• Why go: Matt’s favorite town has a great wine and beer culture, is a hub for hikes, has a vibrant food scene, and the college town atmosphere gives it a lively vibe.
• Highlights:
  • Freiburg Bächle (little streams running through the streets)
  • Rädle – Feine Kost wine bar (feet-in-the-stream dining!)
  • Schlossberg (Castle Mountain) with beer gardens and panoramic views into France
  • Freiburg Cathedral
• Tip: Join a Facebook group like “Find a Travel Buddy” to connect with locals.

Day Trip: Triberg

• Why go: See the World’s Largest Cuckoo Clock and Triberg Waterfall.
• Tip: Do it as a day trip from Frieburg only as there isn’t much else in town.

Hike: Ravenna Gorge

• Where from: Easily accessed by train from Freiburg
• Highlights: Waterfall, gorge paths, farmland, picturesque forest trails
• Duration: Half or full-day loop hike
• Tip: Bring sunscreen as much of the hike is exposed farmland.

Hike: Zweribach Waterfall

• Where from: Near Gasthaus Plattenhof (best by car)
• Highlights:
  • Zweribach Waterfall
  • Mix of untouched forest and farmland
  • Honor-system kiosks with beer, water, and snacks
  • Traditional German food at Gasthaus Plattenhof
• Duration: Short hike (1 km) or longer loop (~5 miles+)
• Tip: This is Matt’s favorite hike in the Black Forest.

Day 8–9: Lake Titisee

• Why go: Scenic lake close to Freiburg; popular day trip.
• Activities: Paddleboats, kayaking, walking around the lake

Optional: Schluchsee

• Why go: Quieter and more local than Titisee
• Activities: Hiking, swimming, more immersive nature
• Tip: A bit harder to access without a car but worth it if you have time.

Optional: Europa-Park (near Offenburg/Rust)

• Why go: Germany’s most popular theme park — a European-style Disneyland with coasters and shows.
• Tip: Book well in advance (especially June–September); stays available inside or near the park in Rust.

Travel Tips from Matt:

• Transportation:
  • Trains are great between big towns (Frankfurt → Heidelberg → Baden-Baden → Offenburg → Freiburg)
  • For Ravenna Gorge, Zweribach Waterfall, and Schluchsee, a car is helpful
  • Sundays: There are fewer trains and buses, so plan accordingly
• Accommodations:
  • Mostly local guesthouses and Airbnbs
  • Bigger cities (Heidelberg, Freiburg) have chain hotels for points users
• Food: Expect hearty German fare – sausages, sauerkraut, pork knuckle – and excellent local wines (especially white wines)
• Unexpected highlight: Freiburg’s chill vibe, renewable energy scene, and foot-in-the-stream wine bars.

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Show Notes

Nomadic Matt
How to Travel the World on $75 a Day: Travel Cheaper, Longer, Smarter
Black Forest
Heidelberg
Heidelberg Student Jail
Baden-Baden
Friedrichsbad bathhouse
Carcalla bathhouse
Hohenbaden Old Castle
City Museum Baden-Baden
Freiburg im Breisgau
Freiburg Bächle
Rädle – Feine Kost (wine bar)
Schlossberg (Castle mountain) | Freiburg
Schlossberg (Freiburg)
Find a Travel Buddy Facebook Group
World’s Largest Cuckoo Clock
Triberg Waterfall
Ravenna Gorge Hike, Self-Guided
Offenburg
Visit Europa-Park, Rulantica & Events and stay overnight, conferences, meetings
 Zwerybach Waterfall Hike
Gasthaus Plattenhof, Sankt Peter
Tegernsee (lake)
Schluchsee
My Suggested Black Forest Itinerary

Community

On Travel to Genoa and Liguria in Italy – Episode 937:

Hi Chris,

Another great episode.  I want to add one other unique destination in this area, Seborga or the Principality of Seborga. It’s classified as a micro-nation and listeners can google it’s history.  I visited in October.  It’s a small medieval village on a mountaintop and the locals are very proud of their “Principality”. There are numerous references to the Knights Templar inhabiting the village. There is a parish church and a Templar church. You can see three countries from the overlook.  It’s worth a quick visit.

Jeff

This episode took me right back to Genoa! My wife and I visited with our 2 kids in 2024. San Lorenzo Cathedral and the Galata Maritime Museum were brilliant, and the museum was a great spot to explore with kids.

For folks on a longer trip, something else to consider is a ferry that runs between Tangier Med, Morocco, and Genoa. Nice cabins and decent dining options. Depending on the season there can be a pool and some other entertainment too.

Anthony

Amateur Traveler Trips