Hear about travel to Umbria in Italy as the Amateur Traveler talks to Katerina Ferrara, the author of the Ultimate Festival & Travel Guide Umbria.

Why should you go to Umbria?

Katerina says, “Travelers should include Umbria in their plans because the hill towns feel just completely suspended in time. These are beautifully preserved places that stay off the main tourist track because the region has no major airport, and the high-speed trains are limited. But if you get there, you can really enjoy some time in the small towns as well as in nature.”

“There are incredible hikes and pilgrimage trails, like the Way of St. Francis, that also work for cyclists. So if you’ve been to Tuscany and loved it, to me, Umbria should be your next stop. Everything you came to is here. It’s got fresco churches, olive oil, wine, truffles, and no crowds. There’s no coaches bringing giant tours. And also the prices are excellent. Lodging in Umbria costs a fraction of what you’re going to pay in Florence, Rome, or Venice.”

Katerina’s Recommended Umbria Itinerary

Katerina recommends a one-week Umbria itinerary by car, starting from Rome Fiumicino Airport, then driving north into Umbria. Her core route is:

Rome → Orvieto → Assisi → Gubbio, with day trips from each base.

Arrive in Rome, rent a car, and drive to Orvieto

She recommends flying into Rome Fiumicino, renting a car at the airport, and driving about two hours north to Orvieto. She says a car is the easiest way to see Umbria because train routes often require connections, and some of the best hill towns are not well served by rail.

Orvieto: 2 nights, 3 if possible

Katerina recommends spending two nights in Orvieto, or three if you can spare them. Start at the base of the hill, park, and take the funicular up into town.

In Orvieto, she recommends:

• Fortezza Albornoz Orvieto, also called the Rocca, for the views
• Pozzo di San Patrizio, the double-helix well built for water access during a siege
• Orvieto Cathedral, especially the mosaic facade, the Chapel of the Corporal, and the Chapel of San Brizio
• The story of Peter of Prague, the Corporal of Bolsena, and the Eucharistic miracle that helped make Orvieto a pilgrimage site
• Orvieto Underground, with Etruscan caves, wells, cisterns, olive presses, kilns, quarries, cellars, and tunnels

She recommends staying at Emme Palace Hotel and Spa, Orvieto, near Piazza della Repubblica and about a five-minute walk from the Duomo.

For food, she recommends Ristorante Maurizio Orvieto, where she mentions local olive oil, bruschetta, Orvieto Classico, umbricelli pasta, lumacelli bread, and pappardelle with wild boar.

Day trips from Orvieto

From Orvieto, she recommends several day trip options.

Bolsena

Bolsena is about 12 miles, or 20 kilometers, from Orvieto. Visit the Basilica of Santa Cristina, where the Eucharistic miracle connected to Orvieto took place. She also recommends enjoying Lake Bolsena, with cafes, lakeside walks, fishing boats, and hiking routes around the lake.

Viterbo

Viterbo is about 24 miles, or 40 kilometers, southwest of Orvieto. She recommends the medieval San Pellegrino Quarter, the Palace of the Popes in Viterbo, and the thermal baths, Terme dei Papi. She also highlights the Macchina di Santa Rosa festival.

Todi and Narni

She mentions Todi as a quick but worthwhile stop because it has four important historic sites on a medieval piazza. She also recommends Narni, noting its connection with the name “Narnia,” its fortress, cathedral, and Etruscan underground area.

Assisi: 2 nights, 3 or 4 if possible

After Orvieto, she recommends driving about 90 minutes to Assisi and spending a couple of nights, though she says three or four nights would be better if the itinerary allows.

She notes that travelers arriving by train actually arrive below Assisi in Santa Maria degli Angeli, then take the Line C bus up the hill. Before going up, she recommends visiting the Papal Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels in Assisi, which contains the Porziuncola, the small chapel where St. Francis founded the Franciscan movement.

In Assisi itself, she recommends:

• Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi, including the lower basilica, upper basilica, Giotto frescoes, and the crypt of St. Francis
• Ristorante Bar San Francesco Assisi for local Umbrian food
• Rocciata, the strudel-like sweet of Assisi
• Temple of Minerva, Assisi
• Santa Maria Maggiore, with the tomb of Carlo Acutis
• Basilica of Saint Clare
• Rocca Maggiore
• Cathedral of San Rufino, on the way up to the Rocca
• Artisan workshops, especially A. Gallo Colors Workshops, where watercolors are made from natural ingredients

For hotels, she recommends Hotel Il Palazzo, Assisi as a central three-star option, or Nun Assisi Relais & Spa Museum as a more luxurious spa hotel.

Day trips from Assisi

Katerina then uses Assisi as a base for several day trips.

Spoleto

Her favorite town in Umbria is Spoleto, about 35 minutes from Assisi. She recommends parking at Spoleto Sfera, then using the elevator and moving walkways into town to avoid driving into the historic center.

In Spoleto, she recommends:

• Pasticceria Tebro, especially for coffee, pastries, and chocolates
• Spoleto Cathedral, with its Romanesque facade and early mosaic
• Albornoziana Fortress, also called the Rocca
• Ponte delle Torri, the dramatic aqueduct bridge
• Hiking trails around the Rocca and the bridge
• Roman Theatre
• Il Tempio del Gusto, especially for local pasta such as strangozzi

For lodging, she recommends Palazzo Leti Residenza d’Epoca.

Spello

Spello is about 15 minutes from Assisi. She recommends visiting the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore for the Baglioni Chapel, with Pinturicchio frescoes, and seeing the town associated with Infiorate di Spello, the flower-petal festival for Corpus Domini.

For food, she recommends Il Mulino, with torta al testo, handmade pastas, local pork, and porchetta.

Foligno

Foligno is about 22 miles from Assisi, or around 30 minutes by train. She recommends:

• Palazzo Trinci, with frescoes, Roman foundations, and an art collection
• Foligno Cathedral
• The lively local shopping streets

For both food and lodging, she recommends Ristorante Albergo Le Mura / Hotel Le Mura, especially for strangozzi picantini with guanciale, tomatoes, and pepperoncino.

Perugia

Perugia is about 35 minutes from Assisi and is the capital of Umbria. She recommends:

• Taking the elevators or mini metro up into the historic center
• Collegio del Cambio, with Perugino’s frescoes
• Baci Perugina chocolate
• The House of Chocolate, Perugina
• Osteria A Priori for lunch
• Umbria Jazz Festival in July
• Hotel Priori Secret Garden if staying overnight

She also mentions Terme Francescane Thermal Baths near Assisi as another possible spa stop.

Gubbio: 2 or 3 nights

After Assisi, she recommends checking out and driving north to Gubbio, where she suggests two or three nights.

In Gubbio, she recommends:

• The intact medieval center
• The central piazza and Gothic palaces
• Roman Theatre
• Taking the funicular up to the Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo, Gubbio
• Learning about Federico da Montefeltro and the Montefeltro dukes
• Osteria dei Re, Gubbio for local food
• Park Hotel ai Cappuccini, a hotel in a former 17th-century monastery
• The Aqueduct Path, a scenic hillside walk above town

Day trip from Gubbio: Città di Castello

From Gubbio, she recommends one main day trip: Città di Castello, close to the Tuscan border.

She highlights the Renaissance art and the Vitelli family, with works connected to Raphael, Luca Signorelli, Ghirlandaio, and Raffaellino del Colle, plus the cathedral dedicated to San Floridio and San Amanzio.

Add a pilgrimage walk: La Via di Francesco

Katerina also recommends considering at least part of La Via di Francesco, the Way of St. Francis. She says it can be done as a multi-day pilgrimage, by bicycle, or as a one-day or half-day walk. The route includes Città di Castello, Gubbio, and Assisi.

Bonus scenic stop: Cascata delle Marmore

For the prettiest spot in Umbria, she chooses Cascata delle Marmore, a three-tiered waterfall created by the Romans in 271 BC. She notes that spring and early summer are better for water flow, and that visitors can check the waterfall website to see when water is being released.

Sponsors

This month, Amateur Traveler is supported by Smart Travel, a new podcast from Nerd Wallet that helps you travel smarter and spend less.

Upgrade your wardrobe with high-quality essentials and get free shipping and 365-day returns at Quince.com/TRAVELER.

Save 50% on Unlimited premium wireless plans starting at $15/month at MintMobile.com/traveler.

For a limited time, try OneSkin with 15% off using code TRAVELER at oneskin.co/TRAVELER.

Get an exclusive 15% discount on Saily data plans! Use code amateurtraveler at checkout. Download Saily app or go to https://saily.com/amateurtraveler

subscribe: rss feed | Apple podcasts

right click here to download (mp3)

Show Notes

Katerina Ferrara
Ultimate Festival & Travel Guide Umbria
Umbria
Orvieto
Fortezza Albornoz Orvieto
Pozzo di San Patrizio
Orvieto Cathedral
Peter of Prague and Tradition
Corporal of Bolsena
Orvieto Underground
Emme Palace Hotel and Spa, Orvieto
Ristorante Maurizio Orvieto
The Orvieto Wine
Pappardelle’s Pasta
Bolsena
Viterbo
Palace of the Popes in Viterbo
Todi
Narni
Assisi
Papal Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels in Assisi
Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi
Ristorante Bar San Francesco Assisi
Rocciata, the Strudel of Assisi
Temple of Minerva, Assisi
Santa Maria Maggiore
Carlo Acutis
Basilica of Saint Clare
Rocca Maggiore
Handmade Watercolors from Italy | A. Gallo Colors
A. Gallo Colors Workshops
Hotel Il Palazzo, Assisi
Nun Assisi Relais & Spa Museum
Spoleto
Pasticceria Tebro
Basilica of San Salvatore, Spoleto
Albornoziana Fortress (Rocca)
Ponte delle Torri
Il Tempio del Gusto
Palazzo Leti Residenza d’Epoca
Roman Theatre
Spello
Baglioni Chapel
Infiorate di Spello
Il Mulino (Restaurant, Spello)
Porchetta
Foligno
Palazzo Trinci
Foligno Cathedral
Ristorante Albergo Le Mura
Hotel Le Mura
Perugia
Collegio del Cambio
Baci Perugina (chocolate)
The House of Chocolate, Perugina
Osteria A Priori (restaurant)
Umbria Jazz Festival
Hotel Priori Secret Garden
Terme Francescane Thermal Baths
Gubbio
Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo, Gubbio
Federico da Montefeltro
Osteria dei Re, Gubbio (restaurant)
Park Hotel ai Cappuccini
Aqueduct Path
Città di Castello
La Via di Francesco
Cascata delle Marmore

Community

Give me your feedback on the show at AmateurTraveler.com/1000
Amateur Traveler Trips