Two Days In Tirana, Albania

For many people, Albania is often linked to the authoritarian regime of Enver Hoxha and his harsh Marxist–Leninist principles. When Albania comes to mind, people typically recall its strict isolationist policies and its dismissal of Western influences. Although this era concluded 20 to 30 years ago, the country has yet to experience a significant influx of tourism, particularly given its location between the major tourist destinations of Italy and Greece.

Recently, during a tour of the Balkan region, my wife and I had the opportunity to spend several days in Tirana, the capital of Albania. Our experience was unexpectedly delightful, leading us to develop a positive regard for a nation that is honoring its past while confidently progressing toward integration with modern Europe.

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The western entrance to Skanderbeg Square in central Tirana

Discovering Tirana

Having set aside two full days in Tirana, the capital city of Albania, we were eager to explore and immerse ourselves in its offerings. Tirana, the largest city in Albania, is situated near the geographical center of the nation, nestled within a vast valley that gently descends towards the Adriatic Sea. The city is flanked by mountains and hills, with Mount Dajti being the most notable.

Established in 1614 by the Ottoman Empire, the region has likely been inhabited since the Iron Age. It remained relatively obscure until the early 20th century, when the Albanian people designated it as the capital following their Declaration of Independence in 1912. Presently, Tirana serves as the governmental hub of Albania and has evolved into the country’s center for economic, financial, and trade activities.

Planning Around the Weather

My wife and I had a precious two days to explore as much of the capital city as we could. Tirana has been recognized as one of the sunniest yet also one of the wettest cities in Europe. Regrettably, during our stay, heavy rain was predicted, prompting us to create an itinerary that mitigated the effects of the expected downpours. We anticipated that our first morning would be clear, so we decided to venture into the mountains for a panoramic view of the city and the surrounding countryside.

A Ride Up Dajti Mountain

Dajti Mountain National Park, a protected area located on the outskirts of Tirana, features a range of mountains and natural landscapes. The highest peak, Dajti, rises to 5,292 feet (1,613 meters) above sea level. A 25-minute taxi ride from our hotel took us to the Dajti Ekspres Cable Car station situated on the hilly outskirts of Tirana.

The cable car operates daily, except on Tuesdays, from 9 AM to 6 PM. At the summit, visitors can find a viewing platform, a restaurant, a hotel, an adventure park, and a mini-golf area. The upper cable car station also serves as the starting point for numerous hiking trails that lead to the summit of Dajti and other nearby peaks.

Although the morning was not ideal for scenic views, we thoroughly enjoyed the 2.6-mile (4.2 km) cable car ride, which lasted approximately 15 minutes, and we found the vistas to be stunning. From our elevated vantage point, Tirana appeared to extend for a considerable distance. We could easily spot the expansive plains of the Tirana Valley and the Adriatic Sea, as well as the downtown business district and our hotel. After spending about an hour at the summit, we made our way back down.

Cold War History: Bunk’Art 1

Located a short walk downhill from the Dajti Ekspres base station is one of Tirana’s most significant attractions. During Enver Hoxha’s rule, Albania’s isolationist government constructed approximately 175,000 bunkers across the nation to defend against potential foreign attacks. While many of these bunkers were small, larger ones were designed to endure nuclear strikes.

Bunk’Art 1 was established from a five-story underground nuclear bunker constructed in June 1978. It comprises 106 rooms across five levels, including a large assembly hall. This facility was intended to function as the headquarters for Enver Hoxha and his deputy, Prime Minister Mehmet Shehu, in the event of a nuclear assault. The spacious auditorium was designed for meetings of the Political Bureau.

In 2014, an exhibition was launched as a video museum focusing on the history of the Albanian communist army and the everyday lives of Albanians during that era. This experience offers visitors valuable insights into Albania’s Cold War history, political oppression, and military background. I regard Bunk’Art 1 and its counterpart Bunk’Art 2 in downtown Albania as the two must-see attractions in the city.

Enver Hoxha’s wartime office inside Bunk’Art1

Exploring the Bunker

Accessing the complex required us to depart from a primary city thoroughfare and walk through a lengthy tunnel. Upon emerging from the tunnel, we were greeted by what appeared to be a factory-like building surrounded by hills. To enter the complex, we had to ascend a slope to find a concealed entrance embedded in the hillside.

From that point, we navigated through a series of airtight doors leading to various rooms and seemingly endless corridors. Each room featured museum-quality historical displays or interpretive art installations. Despite the ample lighting, the hallways evoked a sense of ominousness.

It took approximately two hours to fully appreciate the exhibits and art installations. The layout included numerous corridors and intersecting hallways, with each room housing a distinct installation. Throughout our exploration, we were conscious of periodically descending deeper into the hillside.

The grand assembly hall of Bunk’Art1

Near the conclusion of the tour, we encountered a spacious auditorium and a canteen. The experience was unsettling yet enlightening, providing insight into the experiences of the Albanian people during the Cold War. Most exhibits included English translations, although the narratives were somewhat tedious to read. An audio tour could be purchased at the ticket office prior to entering the museum. It was difficult to envision what life would have been like within this structure, which predominantly felt cold, institutional, and uncomfortable.

Returning from Bunk’Art 1

After leaving the bunker next to the ticket office, we decided to return to the city through the tunnel. Despite the presence of restaurants and shops near the bunker entrance, we chose to head back to the central business district for lunch, as the weather appeared to be turning rainy.

Following a delightful meal at an Albanian restaurant, we began to feel the fatigue from our previous day’s flights and the effects of adjusting our clocks seven hours forward. Furthermore, the first drops of rain started to fall, leading us to look for a place that offered relaxing massages.

This proved to be an excellent way to spend our time and relieve the tension in our tired shoulders and backs.

Sunset at the Sky Tower

Later in the day, following the cessation of rain and the reemergence of the sun, we made our way to the Sky Tower to admire the cityscape from one of its tallest structures, relishing the sight of the sun setting over the Adriatic Sea to the west.

The Sky Tower Hotel, a post-modern building, boasts a revolving restaurant and bar located on the 18th floor. Since its completion in 2023, the revolving bar has become a popular destination each evening as visitors gather to witness the sunset and the illumination of the city.

Admission is complimentary, but patrons are expected to order drinks and food. Tables on the revolving outdoor tier tend to fill up approximately one hour before sunset.

We spent nearly two hours seated, reflecting on our day while observing the bustling city below and enjoying the twinkling lights. A notable highlight was the view of Tirana’s contemporary skyscrapers, which contribute a colorful and dynamic aesthetic to the city.

Our time at the Sky Bar also allowed us to discuss and plan for our upcoming day’s activities.

Staying at the Rogner Hotel

During our stay in Tirana, we resided at the Rogner Hotel located on Dëshmorët e Kombit Boulevard, situated to the south of the city’s main center.

Nearby were notable attractions including the Presidential Palace, the Palace of Congresses, constructed in the 1980s as a representation of communist ideology, Mother Teresa Square, and several foreign embassies.

We determined that the most effective way to commence our second day and explore the heart of Tirana was by participating in a walking tour.

A dome bunker and a section of the Berlin Wall in Lulishte Ismail Qemali Park

Walking Tour Highlights

Our tour began near our hotel at the small Lulishte Ismail Qemali Park, renowned for its monuments that purportedly illustrate three follies of the Albanian communist regime.

A segment of the Berlin Wall symbolized isolation, an artistic structure crafted from remnants of a labor camp at the Spaç mine signified imprisonment, and a small domed concrete and steel bunker epitomized paranoia.

Additionally, there was a statue of Ismail Qemali Vlora, one of the architects of modern Albania.

Along Dëshmorët e Kombit Boulevard

As we strolled along Dëshmorët e Kombit Boulevard towards Skanderbeg Square, the cultural heart of the city, we uncovered numerous historic and significant landmarks of Tirana.

The picturesque boulevard was adorned with trees, blooming spring flowers, and an array of artistic sculptures.

One of the initial structures we came across was the Pyramid of Tirana. This distinctive concrete edifice originally functioned as a museum dedicated to the legacy of the communist dictator Enver Hoxha.

Over time, it was closed, fell into neglect, and became a canvas for graffiti.

It became such an eyesore that it was marked for demolition; however, in 2023, it underwent refurbishment to include stairways leading to the summit, offering views of downtown Tirana.

Box-like structures that house cafés, studios, and classrooms around the Pyramid of Tirana

The pyramid now stands as an open sculpture within a new park that showcases a collection of vibrant box-shaped buildings, interspersed around the original structure, which accommodates cafés, studios, workshops, start-up offices, incubators, festivals, and classrooms.

It is a highly inviting location that attracts visitors to ascend the stairs and explore the various sections of the pyramid.

Historical Residences and Castle Remnants

Adjacent to the boulevard lies the former residence of dictator Enver Hoxha, which he occupied from 1975 until he died in 1985.

Once abandoned and overrun with weeds, the property is currently undergoing renovations to be opened to the public as a testament to Albania’s history.

Currently, the exterior of the house and the small park in front are accessible to visitors.

Additionally, close to the Pyramid are the remains of Tirana Castle. Although the original structure dates back to the 1300s, only a stone wall, known as the Fortress of Justinian, remains today, serving as a historical remembrance of the Byzantine period.

Within these walls, visitors can find shops offering traditional crafts and restaurants serving Albanian cuisine.

Adjacent to the Tirana Castle area is Murat Toptani Street, a spacious pedestrian thoroughfare lined with cobblestones and trees, named after the affluent Toptani family, a prominent noble family during Albania’s Ottoman era.

Exploring Rinia Park and Cultural Institutions

The peaceful Rinia Park is renowned for its expansive fountain and the Independence Memorial located in the northeastern section.

This sculpture symbolizes Albania’s independence and serves as a testament to the resilience of the Albanian people during challenging periods and conflicts.

A charming waterway meanders from the monument to a stream situated at the park’s center.

An aerial view of the Taiwan complex and fountain

Additionally, the park is home to Taivani, or the Taiwan Center, which locals assert was named for a time when the complex was encircled by floodwaters, resembling the lush island of Taiwan.

The Taiwan Center, which is vibrantly illuminated at night, primarily consists of a variety of restaurants, bars, a bowling alley, and a casino.

Prior to arriving at Skanderbeg Square, visitors can also observe the National Gallery of Arts featuring the modern sculpture known as the Cloud, along with the Ministry of Finance, the Ministry of Internal Affairs, and the historically significant Museum of Secret Surveillance, commonly referred to as the House of Leaves Museum.

Skanderbeg Square and Its Icons

Upon arriving at the expansive 40,000 square meter Skanderbeg Square, the first thing that caught our attention was the monument dedicated to Gjergj Kastrioti, widely recognized as Skanderbeg.

This square and its monument honor his resistance and triumph in liberating Albania from Ottoman rule in the 15th century.

National History Museum of Albania with its large mural mosaic titled “The Albanians”

Dominating the view from the square’s center are two significant buildings: the National History Museum of Albania, which was undergoing renovations during our visit, and the Palace of Culture complex, housing shops, art galleries, a library, and the National Theatre of Opera and Ballet of Albania.

Historic Religious Sites

Additionally, the square features the Clock Tower of Tirana, constructed in the early 19th century by Ottoman rulers, with renovations and design modifications made in the late 1920s. Visitors can ascend the hundred steps to the tower’s summit for a nominal fee.

Close by stands the Et’hem Bey Mosque, which withstood destruction during the communist era and has become a beloved symbol of Albania’s commitment to religious freedom. Although the mosque was closed during the atheistic Communist regime, it escaped demolition as it was classified as a cultural monument rather than a place of worship.

Today, tourists can explore the mosque to admire its vibrant exterior frescoes and the portico frescoes illustrating trees, waterfalls, and bridges.

Bunk’Art 2 and the Secret Police

Our exploration of Tirana’s City Center culminated with a visit to Bunk’Art2, an underground nuclear bunker constructed in 1986 for the Ministry of Internal Affairs.

Located near Skanderbeg Square, this sister exhibit to Bunk’Art1 offers insights into the communist regime and the accompanying repression. Bunk’Art2 specifically details the history of the Ministry of Internal Affairs and its secret police, known as Sigurimi.

Upon entering the dimly lit dome of the bunker, we were confronted with projected images of victims. We then descended a steep staircase into a dark entrance that led to 24 rooms spanning over 1,000 square meters.

The rooms vividly recreated the clandestine operations of Sigurimi, showcasing the severe persecution tactics employed by the political police. These historical displays were interspersed with art installations, allowing visitors to grasp the oppressive atmosphere of the era.

The interior of the domed entrance to Bunk’Art2 with a display of the faces of victims of the Sigurimi

Our guide, having personally endured some of these persecutions, provided invaluable context, helping us understand the terror experienced by those under surveillance by the secret police. While both exhibits shared a somber theme, Bunk’Art2 felt more intimate, focusing on the impact of the communist regime on ordinary citizens. I found our experience significantly enriched by our guide’s personal anecdotes.

Like Bunk’Art1, the displays in Bunk’Art2 were also tedious to read, and it was more effective to experience the installation using a guide.

After spending approximately 45 minutes exploring the various exhibits, we returned to daylight and proceeded to the nearby Pazari i Ri neighborhood, often referred to as Tirana’s new bazaar, for lunch, shopping, and a much-needed respite.

Excursion to Krujë

For our final afternoon in Tirana, we opted for a different experience by arranging a tour to a mountain city outside of Tirana for dinner and scenic views of the countryside.

The city of Krujë, situated approximately 12 1/2 miles (20 kilometers) north of Tirana between the Krujë Mountain and the Ishëm River, was once the capital of the Albanian State during the Middle Ages. It was conquered by the Ottoman Empire and later liberated by Skanderbeg. Following Skanderbeg’s death, the Ottomans regained control and maintained their hold over the city until the early 1900s.

Presently, Krujë is a mountain tourist destination characterized by the remnants of Krujë Castle, which is perched at the highest spot in the city.

Our journey to Krujë included a bus ride through Fushë-Krujë, a city located near the Ishëm River, which gained notoriety for hosting President George W. Bush in June 2007, marking him as the first U.S. president to visit post-communist Albania. Today, the city proudly boasts a George W. Bush Square, a statue, two bakeries, and a bar.

The entrance to the Old Bazaar of Krujë, Albania

The journey to Krujë involved numerous winding roads that ascended the mountain slopes. Upon reaching a vantage point near the castle, we disembarked from our bus and proceeded to the Old Bazaar, which has a history of 400 years and featured a network of cobblestone alleyways reminiscent of the Ottoman Empire era.

Numerous shops, which appeared to have been established for many years, displayed handicrafts. My personal favorite showcased traditional, handmade qeleshes, a white brimless felt skull cap worn throughout Albania.

The proprietor was eager to demonstrate his craft and welcomed visitors to try on the hats. Additionally, many shops offered handwoven carpets.

A display from the Ethnographic Museum at Krujë Castle

Eventually, we arrived at the castle grounds where we explored the Ethnographic Museum, which illustrated the lifestyle of the people in Krujë during earlier times.

The remains of Krujë Castle at the highest point in the city of Krujë, Albania

Following a brief tour of the castle, we returned to the Bazaar to enjoy a performance featuring singers and dancers who presented the folk music, dances, and costumes of the local community. The event culminated in an interactive celebration where everyone joined the performers in dancing, honoring the folk traditions of Albania.

The final highlight of our trip was a traditional Albanian dinner at the Panorama Restaurant. From our vantage point, we could admire the entirety of Krujë, as well as the distant views of Tirana and the Adriatic Sea.

As the sun began to set, we contemplated how this was a splendid conclusion to our visit to Albania.

The author and a view of Krujë Castle

Final Thoughts on Tirana

In summarizing our visit to Tirana, I would characterize it as surprising, vibrant, and economical. The city exceeded our expectations significantly. Although we had a comprehensive list of attractions and experiences we aimed to see, we so enjoyed exploring the city that we managed to only complete about half of them.

Tirana exuded a dynamic energy, characterized by bustling days and an active nightlife. Emerging from the dull uniformity of its communist past, new buildings adorned in bright colors were becoming prominent.

A remarkable aspect of Albania was its affordability, which stood out compared to many regions in Europe we have visited. The costs for food, accommodation, transportation, and tours were quite reasonable. Tirana is increasingly being recognized by Europeans as a summer beach destination, and I am confident they will soon come to appreciate the allure of the rest of the country.

Our two-day stay in Tirana was influenced by limited awareness of available activities, time constraints, and the weather conditions. I encourage you if you are contemplating a trip to the Balkans, to allocate a few days to explore Tirana. I am confident that you will uncover your own unique experiences that will captivate you. Allow yourself the opportunity to relish the delightful surprise of discovering this city before it emerges as the next essential destination on every traveler’s itinerary.