Travel to Northern Taiwan – Episode 973

In this episode of Amateur Traveler, Chris talks with returning guest and friend of the show Lee Moore, author of “China’s Backstory: The History Beijing Doesn’t Want You to Read“ and co-host of the Chinese Literature Podcast. Lee returns to share his love for Northern Taiwan, a place he first lived in more than a decade ago while studying Chinese literature in Taipei, and a region he revisited in 2023 with his wife and two young children.

Together, they explore what to see, how to get around, and why Northern Taiwan makes an unexpectedly great family-friendly adventure.

Why Visit Northern Taiwan?

Lee describes Northern Taiwan as a place rich in history, natural beauty, museums, night markets, rail-line towns, beaches, and hot springs. It blends the best of Japan and China while maintaining its own distinct culture. He jokes that you should visit now “before China invades,” but quickly follows with more grounded reasons: world-class museums, unique cultural quirks, kid-friendly public infrastructure, beautiful hikes, and easy day trips from Taipei without ever changing hotels.

What We Cover in This Episode

Taipei’s Top Museums

National Palace Museum (Taipei)

One of the most important museums in the Chinese-speaking world and comparable in caliber to the Louvre or British Museum.
Highlights include:

• Ancient bronzes from the Zhou dynasty
• Rotating exhibits from a collection so vast that it takes roughly 10 years to cycle through
• A family-friendly children’s gallery
• Easy subway access (Red Line to Shilin Station, then a short bus ride)

Note: The famous Jade Cabbage is now displayed at the southern branch, but the Taipei museum remains extraordinary.

Museum of the Institute of History and Philology

A truly off-the-radar museum rarely mentioned in guidebooks (not even in Lonely Planet), housed at Academia Sinica.
Lee calls it “maybe even cooler than the Palace Museum.” Why you should go:

• Displays from the birthplace of Chinese civilization
• Shang dynasty oracle bones—the earliest Chinese writing
• Dramatic archaeological finds, including human sacrifice sites
• Zhou dynasty bronzes
• Only open Wed, Sat, Sun, and slightly tricky to reach (Blue Line to Nangang Exhibition Center, then bus or 15-min walk)

Night Markets of Taipei

Lee explains that night markets are “hot and lively” places packed with incredible street food, games, and crowds. Among many options:

• Shilin Night Market – most famous but touristy
• Ningxia Night Market – Lee’s pick for the best combination of local and accessible
• Raohe Night Market – vibrant and easy to reach
• Guangzhou Street Night Market – excellent food but in a rougher neighborhood with gambling and prostitution; safe but grittier

Expect:

• Deep-fried snacks
• Grilled skewers
• Vietnamese street foods
• Squid, swordfish, mushrooms, and more

Hiking in Taipei

Elephant Mountain (Xiangshan)

One of Taipei’s iconic hikes, offering the classic view of Taipei 101.

• Subway accessible (Xiangshan Station)
• Steep stair-based trail
• Great vistas and photo platforms (including photo spots built for Instagram)

Sandiaoling Waterfall Trail

Reachable via the Pingxi rail line, this hike lets you:

• Climb beside and even above waterfalls
• Enjoy a longer, more varied hike than Elephant Mountain

Day Trips: Pingxi Line and Beyond

The Pingxi Line is a Japanese-built coal railroad transformed into a series of charming stops and villages perfect for day trips.

note: the Pingxi Line was damaged by a typhoon between the recording of this episode and its release. Double-check the status before your trip.

Houtong Cat Village

Originally a declining mining village, it is now revived thanks to an explosion of stray cats.
Expect:

• Dozens (or hundreds) of cats are lounging around town
• Free mining museum
• Family-friendly atmosphere

Houtong Pit Mining Recreation Park

A quirky, delightful, slightly dangerous-feeling attraction where:

• You ride a small train into an old mine
• Kids can use (real!) jackhammers
• You can pump your own railcar

Pingxi Old Street & Sky Lanterns

Known for:

• Writing wishes on colorful lanterns
• Releasing them from the train tracks
• Festivals during the Lunar New Year feature massive releases

Note: Sky lanterns are beautiful but carry environmental and fire risks.

Jiufen (Chiufen)

A former gold mining town often rumored to have inspired Miyazaki’s Spirited Away (though the director denies it).
Lee says:

• Beautiful and photogenic, especially at night
• Overrated if judged strictly by activities
• Worth visiting if you prioritize photos or ambiance

Beitou Hot Springs

A Japanese-style hot springs district just 25 minutes north of Taipei by subway (transfer at Beitou to the Xinbeitou branch).
Features:

• Dozens of hot spring hotels
• Public bathhouses from the early 1900s
• Architecture reminiscent of onsen towns in Japan
• Affordable entry fees (around NT$150 / US$5)

Beach Day: Wai’ao (Wai-Ao) Black Sand Beach

It takes just 90 minutes to 2 hours by train from Taipei.
What you’ll find:

• Striking black volcanic sand
• Surf shops and board rentals
• Food stalls and casual beach culture
• A perfect family-friendly outing if you want to dip into Taiwan’s coastal life

Taiwan as a Family Destination

Lee emphasizes how unusually child-friendly Taiwan is:

• Breastfeeding rooms everywhere, including a Hello Kitty–themed facility at Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport
• High-quality playgrounds in every district
• Free Parent–Child Centers throughout the city (indoor playrooms open certain hours)
• Convenience stores like 7-Eleven are on nearly every corner, carrying diapers, snacks, and drinks
• Kids loved:
  • Papaya milk
  • Danbing (egg pancake breakfast)
  • Chocolate xiaolongbao at Din Tai Fung

His verdict: Taiwan is one of the easiest places in Asia to travel with young kids.

Additional Sights Mentioned

• Taipei 101 – Former tallest building in the world, great views, and a fascinating tuned mass damper
• Boan Temple – Taiwanese folk temple Chris visited on a layover
• Jingmei White Terror Memorial Park – Former prison turned museum documenting Taiwan’s authoritarian past
• 228 Memorial Museum – Covers the pivotal and tragic February 28 Incident
• Little Indonesia – A street east of Taipei Main Station, full of Indonesian restaurants and karaoke

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Show Notes

Taiwan
Taipei
National Palace Museum
Fragile Cargo: The World War II Race to Save the Treasures of China’s Forbidden City
Institute of History and Philology, Academia Sinica
Taipei Layover Tour – How to Spend an 8+ Hour Layover
Shilin Night Market
Ningxia Night Market
Guangzhou Street Night Market
Xiangshan, Taipei
Pingxi line
Houtong railway station
Houtong Cat Village
Houtong Miner’s Culture and History Museum | New Taipei City Travel
Houtong Coal Mine Ecological Park
Sandiaoling Waterfall Train
Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival
Jiufen
Beitou District
Waiao Beach
228 Peace Memorial Park
Jing-Mei White Terror Memorial Park
Taipei 101
Indonesian food near Taipei Main Station
Bao’an Temple
China’s Backstory: The History Beijing Doesn’t Want You to Read

Community

Dear Chris,

I have been a fan of Amateur Travel for many years, having hiked Hadrian’s Wall and taken a river trip in Costa Rica because of your podcast.
Thanks! Love your gentle “Thanks SO much”, which inspires me!

Julie

—

Hi Chris,

Just listened to the Bhutan ep, not sure he really sold the Tiger’s Nest! Though the photo on the front of the ep helps.

I’ve added a few comments to the ep about hiking there (of course!).

Bhutan is a wonderful country, which I was fortunate enough (literally, given its cost!) to spend a month in.

“In my opinion, the main reasons to visit are for its incredible culture (well covered in the episode) and the hiking (less well covered). On the latter, the Jomolhari Trek and the Laya Gasa Trek are the most popular multi-day hikes, both visit the 7,326 m (24,035 ft) Jomolhari mountain. The best scenery is on the near-month-long Snowman Trek, a seriously challenging hike.

For something easier, the little-visited Ha Valley to the west of Paro has some lovely day walks. They’ve also recently launched the Trans Bhutan Trail, which is more of a cultural hike across the low(er) lands of the country.

Also to note that, the Sustainable Development Fee, effectively a tourist tax of $200 per day, has been reduced to $100 per day since June 2023. I think they overestimated post-COVID demand!”

BTW, the bitcoin mining is due to Bhutan’s large amount of hydropower, with bitcoin mining needing cheap electricity.

Sounds like you have some great eps coming up.

Jonty

Give me your feedback on the show at AmateurTraveler.com/1000
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